"Passing by Kerrieri, we arrive at last at Khartoum, a town replete
with bustle and movement, in the full tide of Turkish and African
civilization, crowded with the countless vessels and boats of all
sorts and sizes, which, at this time of the year, throng the port. In
a few days, towards the middle of December, the navigation of the
White Nile will become easy, and all the merchants of the country are
hard rat work preparing their cargoes of European commodities for the
south—silk, cotton, and woollen goods, muslins, powder, sugar,
spices, coffee, and arrack—in exchange for the produce of equatorial
countries, such as gum, gold dust, ostrich feathers, rhinoceros
horns, hippopotamus and elephant's tusks, and last but not least, a
goodly number of slaves, whom, in spite of the Government edicts,
they know how to hide in some den and sell to a pacha or a bey, whose
position places him out of the reach of the law. We must admit this
fundamental principle—in Eastern countries nothing changes, old
manners and customs are always more powerful than laws and firmans.
The Turk is, so to speak, steeped in the past; he sometimes is
subject to superficial reform, but he soon returns to his former
errors, and stagnates afresh in his ancient traditions.
"I promised to take you as far as Khartoum, and I have kept my
promise. I will not, however, limit you to your pound of flesh, but,
before taking leave of you, perhaps, for some time, I will give you a
few concise notes about this town, curious in more ways than one.
These notes are indispensable to you, if you really take any interest
in our journey and wish to follow our onward course. A little
patience, and Périères and Delange will take you for a walk through
this wonderful place, and will unfold to you its secrets; for, so I
am told, there is a truly marvellous freedom of morals in Khartoum,
and in it the scent of European corruption mingles with the acrid
stench of savage life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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