A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864Livingstone, David
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A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864
Livingstone, David
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, Central -- Discovery and exploration
In going in the first instance N.E. from the uppermost Cataract, we
followed in a measure the great bend of the river towards the foot of
Mount Zomba. Here we had a view of its most imposing side, the west,
with the plateau some 3000 feet high, stretching away to its south, and
Mounts Chiradzuru and Mochiru towering aloft to the sky. From that
goodly highland station, it was once hoped by the noble Mackenzie, who,
for largeness of heart and loving disposition, really deserved to be
called the "Bishop of Central Africa," that light and liberty would
spread to all the interior. We still think it may be a centre for
civilizing influences; for any one descending from these cool heights,
and stepping into a boat on the Upper Shire, can sail three hundred miles
without a check into the heart of Africa.
We passed through a tract of country covered with mopane trees, where the
hard baked soil refused to let the usual thick crops of grass grow; and
here we came upon very many tracks of buffaloes, elephants, antelopes,
and the spoor of one lion. An ox we drove along with us, as provision
for the way, was sorely bitten by the tsetse. The effect of the bite
was, as usual, quite apparent two days afterwards, in the general
flaccidity of the muscles, the drooping ears, and looks of illness. It
always excited our wonder that we, who were frequently much bitten too by
the same insects, felt no harm from their attacks. Man shares the
immunity of the wild animals.
Finding a few people on the evening of the 20th of August, who were
supporting a wretched existence on tamarinds and mice, we ascertained
that there was no hope of our being able to buy food anywhere nearer than
the Lakelet Pamalombe, where the Ajawa chief, Kainka, was now living; but
that plenty could be found with the Maravi female chief, Nyango. We
turned away north-westwards, and struck the stream Ribve-ribve, or Rivi-
rivi, which rises in the Maravi range, and flows into the Shire.
As the Rivi-rivi came from the N.W. we continued to travel along its
banks, until we came to people who had successfully defended themselves
against the hordes of the Ajawa. By employing the men of one village to
go forward and explain who we were to the next, we managed to prevent the
frightened inhabitants from considering us a fresh party of Ajawa, or of
Portuguese slaving agents. Here they had cultivated maize, and were
willing to sell, but no persuasion could induce them to give us guides to
the chieftainess, Nyango. They evidently felt that we were not to be
trusted; though, as we had to certify to our own character, our
companions did not fail "to blow our own trumpet," with blasts in which
modesty was quite out of the question. To allay suspicion, we had at
last to refrain from mentioning the lady's name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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