A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864Livingstone, David
History
A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864
Livingstone, David
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, Central -- Discovery and exploration
Our curiosity had been so much excited by the reports we had heard of the
Kebrabasa rapids, that we resolved to make a short examination of them,
and seized the opportunity of the Zambesi being unusually low, to
endeavour to ascertain their character while uncovered by the water. We
reached them on the 9th of November. The country between Tette and Panda
Mokua, where navigation ends, is well wooded and hilly on both banks.
Panda Mokua is a hill two miles below the rapids, capped with dolomite
containing copper ore.
Conspicuous among the trees, for its gigantic size, and bark coloured
exactly like Egyptian syenite, is the burly Baobab. It often makes the
other trees of the forest look like mere bushes in comparison. A hollow
one, already mentioned, is 74 feet in circumference, another was 84, and
some have been found on the West Coast which measure 100 feet. The lofty
range of Kebrabasa, consisting chiefly of conical hills, covered with
scraggy trees, crosses the Zambesi, and confines it within a narrow,
rough, and rocky dell of about a quarter of a mile in breadth; over this,
which may be called the flood-bed of the river, large masses of rock are
huddled in indescribable confusion. The drawing, for the use of which,
and of others, our thanks are due to Lord Russell, conveys but a faint
idea of the scene, inasmuch as the hills which confine the river do not
appear in the sketch. The chief rock is syenite, some portions of which
have a beautiful blue tinge like _lapis lazuli_ diffused through them;
others are grey. Blocks of granite also abound, of a pinkish tinge; and
these with metamorphic rocks, contorted, twisted, and thrown into every
conceivable position, afford a picture of dislocation or unconformability
which would gladden a geological lecturer's heart; but at high flood this
rough channel is all smoothed over, and it then conforms well with the
river below it, which is half a mile wide. In the dry season the stream
runs at the bottom of a narrow and deep groove, whose sides are polished
and fluted by the boiling action of the water in flood, like the rims of
ancient Eastern wells by the draw-ropes. The breadth of the groove is
often not more than from forty to sixty yards, and it has some sharp
turnings, double channels, and little cataracts in it. As we steamed up,
the masts of the "Ma Robert," though some thirty feet high, did not reach
the level of the flood-channel above, and the man in the chains sung out,
"No bottom at ten fathoms." Huge pot-holes, as large as draw-wells, had
been worn in the sides, and were so deep that in some instances, when
protected from the sun by overhanging boulders, the water in them was
quite cool. Some of these holes had been worn right through, and only
the side next the rock remained; while the sides of the groove of the
flood-channel were polished as smooth as if they had gone through the
granite-mills of Aberdeen. The pressure of the water must be enormous to
produce this polish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account