A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864Livingstone, David
History
A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864
Livingstone, David
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, Central -- Discovery and exploration
After the examination of three branches by the able and energetic
surveyor, Francis Skead, R.N., the Kongone was found to be the best
entrance. The immense amount of sand brought down by the Zambesi has in
the course of ages formed a sort of promontory, against which the long
swell of the Indian Ocean, beating during the prevailing winds, has
formed bars, which, acting against the waters of the delta, may have led
to their exit sideways. The Kongone is one of those lateral branches,
and the safest; inasmuch as the bar has nearly two fathoms on it at low
water, and the rise at spring tides is from twelve to fourteen feet. The
bar is narrow, the passage nearly straight, and, were it buoyed and a
beacon placed on Pearl Island, would always be safe to a steamer. When
the wind is from the east or north, the bar is smooth; if from the south
and south-east, it has a heavy break on it, and is not to be attempted in
boats. A strong current setting to the east when the tide is flowing,
and to the west when ebbing, may drag a boat or ship into the breakers.
If one is doubtful of his longitude and runs east, he will soon see the
land at Timbwe disappear away to the north; and coming west again, he can
easily make out East Luabo from its great size; and Kongone follows
several miles west. East Luabo has a good but long bar, and not to be
attempted unless the wind be north-east or east. It has sometimes been
called "Barra Catrina," and was used in the embarkations of slaves. This
may have been the "River of Good Signs," of Vasco da Gama, as the mouth
is more easily seen from the seaward than any other; but the absence of
the pillar dedicated by that navigator to "St. Raphael," leaves the
matter in doubt. No Portuguese live within eighty miles of any mouth of
the Zambesi.
The Kongone is five miles east of the Milambe, or western branch, and
seven miles west from East Luabo, which again is five miles from the
Timbwe. We saw but few natives, and these, by escaping from their canoes
into the mangrove thickets the moment they caught sight of us, gave
unmistakeable indications that they had no very favourable opinion of
white men. They were probably fugitives from Portuguese slavery. In the
grassy glades buffaloes, wart-hogs, and three kinds of antelope were
abundant, and the latter easily obtained. A few hours' hunting usually
provided venison enough for a score of men for several days.
On proceeding up the Kongone branch it was found that, by keeping well in
the bends, which the current had worn deep, shoals were easily avoided.
The first twenty miles are straight and deep; then a small and rather
tortuous natural canal leads off to the right, and, after about five
miles, during which the paddles almost touch the floating grass of the
sides, ends in the broad Zambesi. The rest of the Kongone branch comes
out of the main stream considerably higher up as the outgoing branch
called Doto.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account