The number of felloes in a wheel is decided by its size and number of spokes, two spokes being driven into each felloe. For an ordinary-sized brougham the felloes should be seven in number for the hind wheels, and six for the front wheels, or fourteen and twelve spokes respectively. For the purpose of connecting the felloes, a dowel or pin is cut on the end of one of them, and a corresponding hole bored on another, and they are fitted together; in common work holes are bored in each felloe, and an independent pin of hard wood or iron fitted into them. There is less time and labour consumed in this latter method; but the felloes constructed on this plan are not very reliable, and their weakness is soon shown by what is known as “dropping,” which is simply caused by the wear and tear to which wheels are subject working the dowels in the holes and enlarging them (the holes), and destroying the truth of the joint, which loss is soon discovered by the play or freedom given to the felloes allowing them to slip out of their place. But it must be borne in mind that this defect is just as liable to take place in felloes put together in the other way if the holes are not truly bored, and the joints are not well fitted. The following directions as to putting on the tires are given in the “Coachmaker’s Handbook,” an American work:— “First examine the wheels and see what condition they are in for the tire, so that we can determine what draught to give them. See if the felloes are drawn snug on the shoulder of the spokes, and how much open there is in the rim; for instance, one set we will suppose to be 1½-inch felloe, open ³⁄₁₆ of an inch, give a good ¼-inch draught; 1⅜-inch felloe, ³⁄₁₆ open, just ¼-inch draught; 1¼-inch felloe, ³⁄₁₆ open, ³⁄₁₆-draught, and so on. “Now in determining what draught to give the above wheels, we supposed them all to be good, sound, hard, hickory felloes; if the felloes are of soft timber just give them a trifle more draught. If the wheels should be above ¼-inch dish, the felloes would want only one-half the opening, but give them the same draught as the above. In running the tire, lay all the above tire in sets on the floor, roll the wheels on them, and allow 1 inch for taking up in bending; then mark the end of the nave with chalk, 1, 2, 3, 4, &c., and the tire with a sharp cold chisel mark I., II., III., IV., &c. Then straighten on a block set up endwise about 2 feet high, a little concave or hollow in the centre, letting the helper strike while the smith manages the tires until the kinks are all taken out of them. Then bend one end a little, so that it can be got into the machine, and take pains to get them as round as possible.