A practical treatise on coach-building historical and descriptive : $b Containing full information of the various trades and processes involved, with hints on the proper keeping of carriages, &c.Burgess, James W.
History
A practical treatise on coach-building historical and descriptive : $b Containing full information of the various trades and processes involved, with hints on the proper keeping of carriages, &c.
Burgess, James W.
Carriage and wagon making; Carriages and carts
A material has recently been brought into the English market called
“permanent wood filling,” which is confidently recommended as
effecting a saving in time, expense, and labour, and at the same time
more effectually closing the pores of the wood than the ordinary
filling now in use. This invention is due to a Polish exile named
Piotrowski, who took refuge in America, and there introduced it about
1867, since which date it has found its way into the chief carriage
factories in the United States. It is applied to the bare wood, one
coat being given to bodies and two coats to carriage parts. This
closes the pores, holds the grain immovably in its place, and is
so permanent in its effect that neither exposure to dampness, nor
atmospheric changes, nor the vibrations to which a carriage is so
subject can affect the grain. The satisfaction which this material
appears to give to the Americans, who pride themselves on the
superiority of their carriage-painting, ought to induce our English
coach-builders to inquire after it; for if all that we hear of it be
correct, it must assuredly be a valuable acquisition to the paint
shop.
In rubbing down use pumice-stone. It is best to begin on top and
follow on down, so that the filling water may not run down on to any
part that has been finished. Water should not stand for any length
of time on the inside of the body; and when the rubbing is completed
wash off clean outside and in, and dry with a chamois kept for the
purpose.
The body, when dry, receives a staining coat, and is to be carefully
sand-papered over, the corners cleaned out, and put on a coat or
two coats of dark lead colour, made of tub lead, lampblack, raw
oil, and a small quantity of sugar of lead, and reduced to a proper
consistency with Japan gold size and turpentine. When dry scratch
over the lead colour with fine sand-paper, which will make it appear
of a lighter colour; we shall then be able to detect any low or sunk
places by reason of the shadow. Putty up any imperfections with putty
made of lead and varnish, and when dry face down with lump pumice and
water. Follow with fine sand-paper, when the surface will be in a
condition to receive the colour coats. Sometimes, after cleaning off,
another coat of dark lead colour is laid on.
Analysing the foregoing, we find we have used—
1 priming coat of lead (or leather parts, 2 coats of
black varnish instead).
2 thin coats lead colour, and stopped up.
5 coats of filling up (8 coats on leather parts).
1 staining coat, rubbed down and cleaned off.
2 coats dark red colour, stopped up, and carefully rubbed down.
1 coat dark lead colour.
—
12 coats, and ready for colour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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