The leather-covered portions are usually primed with two coats of black Japan, reduced with a little turpentine. A good stopping material for nail holes, &c., is made of dry lead and Japan gold size. It is called “hard stopper.” The rough coatings should dry firmly, possessing only sufficient elasticity to bind them to the surface. The first coat will bear a trifle more oil than the remaining ones, and should stand about four days before the others are put on, which can be done every other day. Five coats of filling up are next added, composed as follows:— 2 parts filling up stuff. 1 part tub lead. 2 parts turpentine. 1 part Japan gold size. ½ „ bottoms of wearing varnish. The first coat should cover every portion of the lead surface, be well brushed in, but not allowed to lie heavy at the corners. The remaining coats may be applied reasonably heavy, but kept from lapping over the edges or rounding the sharp corners, and thus destroying the clean sharp lines of the body-maker. Any defects noticed while filling in should be puttied or stopped, ever bearing in mind that the perfection in finish aimed at is only secured by care at every step taken. The leather-covered parts generally have three additional coats of filling in. The time allowed for each coat to dry may be extended as far as convenient, but there is nothing to be gained by allowing weeks to intervene between the coatings. When a coat is hard it is ready for another; and it is far better to have the body filled and set aside than to divide the time between the coatings, and probably be compelled to rub out the body before the last coat is firm. Of course, the time occupied by the coats of filling in to dry varies according to its composition. If much oil be used, it will take a longer time for each coat to dry; but the above composition may be applied one coat every other day. The first coat may be applied rather thinner than the others, and is improved by being mixed with a little more white-lead. It should also be made more elastic than the succeeding ones, as it will then take a firmer hold on the “dead” lead coat over which it is placed, contributing a portion of its elasticity to that coat, and also cling more firmly to the hard drying coats which follow. The body having been filled in may be set aside to harden, or if the smith is ready for it this is the best time for him to take it in hand, as any dents or burns that he may cause can now easily be remedied without spoiling the appearance of the vehicle. Later on, this is a matter of great difficulty, if not impossibility. Any bruises should be puttied; any parts which may happen to be burned must have the paint scraped off bare to the wood. Prime the bare spots, and putty and fill them to bring them forward the same as the general surface.