A practical treatise on coach-building historical and descriptive : $b Containing full information of the various trades and processes involved, with hints on the proper keeping of carriages, &c.Burgess, James W.
History
A practical treatise on coach-building historical and descriptive : $b Containing full information of the various trades and processes involved, with hints on the proper keeping of carriages, &c.
Burgess, James W.
Carriage and wagon making; Carriages and carts
In varnishing a body begin on the roof, bringing the varnish to
within 2 or 3 inches of the outer edges. Next, the inside of doors,
&c., then the arch. When these are finished, start on the head rail
on one side, lay the varnish on heavy, and follow quickly to the
quarter. The edge on the roof, which was skipped before, is to be
coated and finished with the outside, thus preventing a heavy edge.
Continue round the body, finishing the boot last.
The frames and other loose pieces about a coach should be brought
forward along with the body, and not left as is often done. The
frames are most conveniently handled by a device similar to a
swinging dressing-glass; a base and two uprights stoutly framed
together, allowing space for the frame to swing. It is held in its
position by two pointed iron pins, one fixed and the other movable.
This is very convenient for varnishing, as the painter can examine
his work by tilting it to any angle, and thus detect any pieces of
dirt, &c.
If the body is to be lake in colour, the lake should be ground in raw
oil, stiff, and reduced with turpentine and hard drying varnish. The
same with dross black and Indian red. Over lakes and greens two coats
of hard drying varnish should be applied, and one coat of finishing.
If the body is to be blue, mix ultramarine blue with one-half raw oil
and turpentine, and bring it to a workable consistency by thinning
with hard drying body varnish. Give the body two coats, and after
each a slight flatting; then give two more coats of the same with
varnish added.
When Prussian blue is used, two coats are applied, and white is
added, if necessary, to bring it to the required shade. The blues
will dry sufficiently well when merely ground in raw oil, stiff, and
reduced with turpentine, and it is better not to add a drier over
blues; only one coat of hard drying body varnish should be given, and
one finishing coat.
In no case should the painter allow his oil colours to dry with a
gloss. He must always flat them and give them the appearance of
dead colour. This is particularly important, in case rough stuff or
quick-drying colour is to be used over it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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