A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Moschus ex vesicis_ is said to be the musk taken from Tonkin sacs.
As a rule, however, it consists of a mixture of musk substance taken
from good sacs which present a bad appearance, or have been torn, and
from sacs of an inferior quality, frequently adulterated with foreign
substances, such as dried blood, dung of birds, weathered bicarbonate
of soda, etc.
To open a musk sac, cut it with a sharp penknife around where the
hairless side joints the hairy side, and empty it by scraping it out
upon a sheet of paper. The membranes and hair are then removed by means
of pincers.
The musk-substance of the Tonkin sacs is generally a heavy, dry-feeling
mass; it is partially intermingled with and partially enveloped by
small, thin, soft, brown, somewhat transparent membranes and frequently
mixed with small hair. It is partially loose and crummy, and partially
consists of various lumps or grains of the size of a mustard seed to
that of a pea, which are more or less roundish, more seldom angular,
softer or harder (but can always be readily cut), of a fatty lustre and
black-brown or dark-red color. In fresh sacs, the mass is frequently
soft, and, when bruised, somewhat smeary, but never unctuous. On
rubbing, it becomes paler in color, and glistening hair-like, paler,
gray or whitishyellow particles, sometimes of a crystalline texture,
appear. The odor of the musk substance is peculiar, strong, and very
constant; it is agreeable only when much diluted.
Musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and physical
constitution, the reason for this being found in the age and the
different foods of the musk animal, the season in which it is killed,
and the degree of dryness of the musk-substance. Water dissolves ¾
of good musk and 90 per cent. alcohol ½. The alcoholic solution is
not precipitated by water. Musk further contains fat-like substances,
wax, gall-substances (together 10 to 12 per cent.), glue-substances
and albumen (6 to 9 per cent.), traces of lactic and butyric acids,
phosphates, sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline
earths, frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate and a volatile
oil, further moisture, humus-substance, and fibrous matter.
Musk, when dried, has a weak odor, which gradually becomes stronger on
moistening. There are several substances which destroy the musk odor,
especially bitter almonds, camphor, sulphur, acids and sulphates. The
odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been rubbed can best be
removed by pounding bitter almonds in it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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