A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Since, on account of the high price of musk, the musk animal is much
hunted, there is a possibility of it becoming in time extinct. For this
reason a substitute has been long searched for, and is believed to have
been found, especially, in the American musk-rat (_Fiber zibethicus_),
which is chiefly hunted for its skin. In this animal the musk is found
in two small sacs located between the anus and generative organs,
and is emitted when the animal becomes excited. According to R. S.
Cristiani, this musk is invaluable for the toilet soap industry of
America, it being nearly as good and strong as genuine musk. Cristiani
has formerly used much of it for scenting soaps, powders, etc., but
does not recommend it for essences. When used for soaps, some time is
required for the odor to become refined, and if a piece of soap scented
with it is stored for a few months, it would, according to Cristiani's
assertion, be difficult even for an expert perfumer to distinguish the
odor from that of genuine Tonkin musk.
As possible substitutes for the musk deer may further be mentioned
a species of rat indigenous to the West Indies, and an antelope of
North Africa. It is also said that musk derived from the Mississippi
alligator has been brought into commerce. The sacs are said to
be small, the odor somewhat different from that of genuine musk,
resembling that of civet, but suitable for perfuming purposes.
A process for the preparation of _artificial musk_ has been patented
by Dr. Baur, of Gispersleben. According to the specification, toluol
is mixed with the halogen compounds of butane and boiled with the
addition of aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide. The product of the
reaction is mixed with water and distilled with steam. The fraction
passing over between 338° and 392° F. is caught and treated with fuming
nitric acid and fuming sulphuric acid. The product obtained is washed
with water and alcohol, and crystallized. The artificial musk forms an
amorphous white powder, which in time becomes yellow. It is readily
soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, but from solutions in weaker alcohol
it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature. The odor becomes very
pronounced after the addition of 5 drops of ammonia to 1 pound of a one
per cent. solution.
This artificial product having been in existence but for a short
time, it is not possible to come to a final conclusion as to its
availability. However, its odor differs essentially from that of the
genuine article, and it can scarcely be employed for fine extracts;
if low enough in price it might, however, be suitable for soaps and
cheaper perfumes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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