A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Civet_ (_zibethum_) is derived from two animals of the genus
_Viverra_. The actual civet cat (_Viverra civetta, L._) lives in the
hottest parts of Africa from the Guinea Coast and the Senegal to
Abyssinia, where it is carefully bred for its civet. The product is
also obtained from _Viverra zibetha, L._, indigenous to the Moluccas
and Philippines. The civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus
and the external genitals, and is scraped out with a spoon. It is
semi-liquid, unctuous, yellowish, becoming brown and thicker by
exposure to the air, of a bitter, disagreeable, fatty taste, and of a
peculiar, urinose, disagreeable odor, resembling that of musk which
becomes agreeable only when much diluted and mixed with other perfumes.
When ignited it burns with a bright flame, leaving behind 3 to 4 per
cent. of ash. It is insoluble in water; in spirit of wine it partially
dissolves with difficulty, and with greater ease in warm ether and in
chloroform. It should form a homogeneous, non-crumbling mass. According
to M. Boutron Chalard, it contains free ammonia, stearin, olein, mucus,
resin, a yellow coloring substance, salts, and a volatile oil, the
latter giving the odor to it. In perfumery, civet is chiefly used as an
addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen them and make them
more constant. It is also employed for perfuming fine leather articles.
_Castor_ or _castoreum_ is a peculiar concrete substance obtained
from _Castor fiber_ or the beaver. In both sexes between the anus
and external genitals are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles (Fig.
24) united at their thin ends. The follicles contain, when fresh, a
semi-liquid substance which becomes more solid by drying. The castor
occurring in commerce is generally dried by smoke.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
In commerce two principal varieties are distinguished: Siberian or
Russian and Canadian, English or American castor, the first being the
most valuable. The length of a Siberian sac varies between 2.36 and
4.72 inches, the width between 0.98 and 2.55 inches, and the thickness
between 0.78 and 1.57 inches; it weighs from 1.76 to 8.81 ozs. One of
the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other. The exterior
skin of the sac is almost smooth and, in a dry state, dark brown; the
interior is dirty yellow, intermixed with a dense cellular tissue,
which envelops the castor-substance and is grown together with it. In a
dried state, the latter is dark brown, without lustre, almost friable,
of a very strong, peculiar odor, and a pungent, somewhat bitter,
aromatic taste.
The sacs of Canadian castor are smaller than the Siberian, they being
at the utmost 3.15 inches long, 0.98 inch thick, and darker and
uneven. The interior mass is resinous, hard, with a lustrous fracture,
red-brown, and can be readily pulverized. The odor is weaker, somewhat
musty and ammoniacal, and the taste more bitter and less pungent than
that of the Siberian castor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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