A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Castor is much adulterated--pebbles, pieces of lead, dried blood,
etc., being frequently found in the sacs. These frauds can generally
be detected in cutting the sac open. Spurious sacs are said to be
frequently found among the genuine sacs of Canadian castor. These
spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor, resin,
dragons' blood, etc., in the scrotum of goats.
In perfumery, castor is now very seldom used, the perfumers preferring
musk and civet, which, certainly, give a somewhat different scent.
_Ambergris_ is a fatty, waxy substance, often found floating on the sea
on the coasts of Arabia, Madagascar, Japan, etc. It is also found in
the cæcum of the sperm whale (_Physetus macrocephalus, Schow_), and
is supposed by some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder.
According to Mr. Beale, it merely consists of the indurated fæces of
the animal, perhaps somewhat altered by disease. It has a gray-white
color, often with a black streak and a slight agreeable odor, like
that of benzoin, which becomes more pronounced on heating. When held
for some time in the hand it becomes soft and flexible. It melts at
the temperature of boiling water, and, when more strongly heated,
volatilizes in the form of a white vapor, leaving but slight traces
of ash behind. Its specific gravity is 0.8 to 0.9. It is insoluble in
water, sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine, and more readily so
in hot spirit of wine, ether and volatile and fat oils. It is almost
completely soluble in absolute alcohol. Though ambergris crumbles
readily, it can only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder.
With the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap.
The principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or ambrein, a
non-saponifiable fat, which, from a saturated alcoholic solution of
ambergris, crystallizes, after standing for some time, in the form
of verrucose, whitish or lustrous acicular crystals. According to
John, ambergris consists of 85 per cent. ambrin, 12.5 per cent. sweet
balsamic extract, further benzoic acid, sodium chloride, and 1.5 per
cent. insoluble brown residue. When distilled with water, ambergris
yields 13 per cent. of a volatile oil having an agreeable odor. A
red-hot iron wire readily penetrates ambergris, and from the hole thus
made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable odor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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