A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Heliotropin_ or _piperonal_ is of great importance in the manufacture
of perfumes. It forms small, colorless prismatic crystals, which have
an agreeable odor of héliotrope. Upon the tongue heliotropin produces
the same sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions, the
sensation being, however, more lasting. It melts at about 104° F., and
volatilizes at a higher temperature without leaving a residue. It is
soluble in alcohol and ether, and insoluble in cold water; in hot water
it melts to an oily liquid which floats upon the water.
Exposed to the action of heat and air, heliotropin acquires an uncomely
appearance, balls together and, under very unfavorable circumstances,
turns brown. It is then entirely decomposed and useless, and, hence,
should be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible. A temperature
of 95° F. has already an injurious effect upon the perfume, and it is
best not to buy it at all in the hot summer months. To preserve the
perfume in its entire freshness, it is advisable for consumers in hot
climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol and to keep the
solution in a cool place.
Pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or piperonal, the
white variety being the best for the purpose. To obtain piperine,
contained in varying qualities (7 to 9 per cent.) in pepper, the
latter is repeatedly extracted with boiling alcohol. The extract is
then evaporated to one-third its volume, or the greater portion of the
alcohol is distilled off, and the resinous mass, obtained after the
addition of water, is repeatedly washed in water with the addition of a
small quantity of potash or soda lye, dissolved in alcohol and purified
by repeated recrystallization. To convert the white-yellow piperine
thus obtained into potassium piperate it is, together with equal
parts of potassium hydroxide and 5 to 6 parts of alcohol, kept gently
boiling for 24 hours in a well-closed flask provided with an ascending
Liebig cooler. A capacious flask should be used, as the mass pounds
quite vigorously. After cooling, the precipitate, which is obtained
in yellowish, lustrous lamina, is separated through a filter from the
dark-brown mother-lye, washed with cold alcohol and several times
recrystallized from hot water. A further discoloration may be effected
by the addition of animal charcoal.
The potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly colorless prisms in
verucose groups, which, however, turn yellow when exposed to light.
By boiling the alcoholic mother-lye with ⅓ of the previously used
potash-lye, further small quantities of potassium piperate may be
obtained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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