A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
The Dutch tonka bean is 1.18 to 1.57 inches long, 0.39 to O.59 inch
wide, and O.27 to O.43 inch thick. It is generally slightly curved,
provided under the point with the hilum, and covered with a thin,
fragile, brown-black or black skin of a fatty lustre, upon which small
crystals of cumarin are generally found, so that it appears coated,
especially in the wrinkles, with a whitish dust. The kernel consists
of two yellow-brownish oleiferous catyledons, between which layers of
cumarin are generally found. The odor is agreeable, resembling that of
melilot, and the taste aromatic bitter. Dutch tonka beans contain fat,
sugar, malic acid, and malate of lime; further, starch, gum, and 1 to
5 per cent. of cumarin (C_{9}H_{6}O_{2}). The English tonka beans are
smaller, white-yellowish inside, nearly black outside, and of inferior
quality to the Dutch beans.
From tonka beans, cumarin may be obtained by two different methods.
One method consists in repeatedly extracting the bruised beans with
spirit of wine, distilling the latter off from the extract, and mixing
the residue with cold water, whereby cumarin contaminated with fat
is precipitated. To remove the fat, bring the whole to the boiling
point, filter the hot solution through a moist filter upon which the
fat is retained, and allow to cool, whereby the greater portion of the
cumarin crystallizes out; the remaining small portion is obtained by
evaporating the mother-lye.
According to the other method, the bruised tonka beans are distilled
with water. After 24 hours the greater portion of the cumarin separates
in a crystalline form. The residue remaining in solution can be
withdrawn from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether and subsequent
evaporation of the solvent. From one pound of good tonka beans, up to 4
drachms of cumarin may be obtained.
Cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by recrystallization of
the débris found in the original boxes of tonka beans, which chiefly
consists of cumarin.
Perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing cumarin from
salicylic acid. By boiling the sodium salt of the latter in acetic
anhydride for a few minutes and then pouring into water, an oil-like
body is separated, whilst sodium acetate passes into solution. The
former is a mixture of acetic anhydride, salicylic acid and cumarin;
in distilling, the latter passes over last (at 554° F.), and congeals
in the receiver to a crystalline mass.
Cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several firms, that brought
into the market by Schimmel & Co., of Leipsic, especially being of
excellent quality. Although artificial cumarin is considerably lower
in price than that obtained from tonka beans, most perfumers still
prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by themselves. There is,
however, no good reason for this, since a change in the respective
receipts for perfumes presents no difficulties, 8.46 drachms of cumarin
corresponding to 2.2 lbs. of best tonka beans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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