A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated, be as fresh and
pure as possible, so that they will keep for a long time. Fats intended
for fine pomades, for which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are
generally first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating
them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thoroughly washing, so
that all adhering particles of dirt and mucus are removed, and the
pomades prepared from them are better protected against rancidity. For
the removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats are remelted.
Still greater durability is imparted to the fat by adding in remelting
a small quantity of salicylic acid (2¾ drachms of the acid to 2 lbs.
of fat), or of gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also
renders the fats more durable.
The purification of the fat, which generally consists of 2 to 3 parts
lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently effected as follows: Boil
for about one hour 125 lbs. of fat with about 30 gallons of water
containing 1 lb. each of common salt and alum in solution, constantly
removing the scum formed. After standing for several hours, the fat
thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment and water; it is
then, together with 4 to 6 lbs. of pulverized benzoin, for some time
heated at 167° F., and finally strained into stone jars, which, after
the fat is cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper and
kept for use. Fat thus prepared keeps for years.
For _coloring the pomades_ are used: 1. _For red_: Alkannin, cinnabar,
carmine (triturated with a small quantity of sal ammoniac and added
to the fat) and safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol
and 80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. _For yellow_:
Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. _For brown_: Cocoa powder and
ochre. 4. _For green_: Chlorophyl. Besides the above-mentioned coloring
substances, a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought into
commerce under the name "Lederin" by Saltzer & Voigt, of Oker, Germany.
It is manufactured in lemon color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown
shades, and 10 to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with
about 1 lb. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful color to 100
lbs. of fat or oil.
_Fine French Pomades_ (_Flower Pomades_).--In France, especially in
the southern part, where the cultivation of the various flowers, such
as roses, violets, mignonette, héliotrope, etc., is carried on on an
extensive scale, the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously
mentioned (see p. 58 _et seq._).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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