A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows: The
fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is
melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath. The flowers
in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering the
vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of the perfume of the
respective variety of flower, for a day or two more at a temperature of
from 133° to 145° F. The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken
out, slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation with
always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to
twelve times with the same fat, until it is sufficiently perfumed. The
pomade thus obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently added,
is then stirred until cold.
Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:--
_Pommade à la rose._--Extract, in the manner above given, with 6 lbs.
of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of
fresh rose leaves. Treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner
with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves.
_Pommade à l'acacia._--Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia flowers with 20
lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of
fresh flowers.
_Pommade à la fleur d'orange._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh orange flowers
with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight times with a like
quantity of fresh flowers.
_Pommade à l'héliotrope._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh héliotrope flowers
with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an
equal quantity of fresh flowers.
All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish the perfume, are
prepared in a similar manner. For pomades are chiefly used the flowers
of the geranium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus,
lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume
imparted to them.
POMADES ACCORDING TO THE GERMAN METHOD. Most of the pomades consumed in
Germany are prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, though
sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, castor-oil, cocoanut
oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter
fats. For inferior qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it
not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with
the fat, but also makes the pomade more durable. Soap dissolved in hot
water is also often added to the fat, whereby not only considerable
water is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very white
and pliant. In regard to pomades containing borax, it may be mentioned
that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades
red, while alkannin suffers alterations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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