A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Of animal substances only four are used, namely: _musk_, _castor_
or _castoreum_, _civet_, and _ambergris_; the separation of their
characteristic odoriferous substances has, however, not yet been
accomplished. The odor of plants is generally due to volatile
substances called _volatile_ or _essential oils_. Their occurrence is
not limited to special parts, they being found in the flower, seed,
wood, bast, bark, leaves, and root. However, in every plant the oil
occurs chiefly in certain organs, and it even happens that the oil
differs with the part of the plant whence it is derived. The odors
exist already formed in the living plant, or else are generated, as in
the instance of bitter almonds, by some reaction between the elements
which takes place during fermentation or distillation.
From the strength of the odor of a plant no conclusion can be drawn as
to the quantity of volatile oil present. If this were the case, the
hyacinth, for instance, would contain more oil than the coniferae,
whilst in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only
with the greatest difficulty. The odor does not depend on the quantity,
but on the quality of the oil; a plant may diffuse but little odor and
still contain much volatile oil. Of the various families of plants, the
_labiatae_, _umbelliferae_, and _coniferae_ are richest in volatile
oils.
In every climate plants diffuse odor, those growing in tropical
latitudes being more prolific in this respect than the plants of colder
regions, which, however, yield the most delicate perfume. Although
the East Indies, Ceylon, Peru, and Mexico afford some of the choicest
perfumes, Central Europe is the actual flower garden of the perfumer,
Grasse, Cannes, and Nice being the principal places for the production
of perfume-materials. Thanks to the geographical position of these
places, the cultivator, within a comparatively narrow space, has at his
disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect development
of the plants. The _Acacia Farnesiana_ grows on the seashore, without
having to fear frost, which in one night might destroy the entire crop,
while at the foot of the Alps, on Mount Esteral, the violet diffuses a
much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions, where the olive and the
tuberose reach perfect bloom. England asserts its superiority in oils
of lavender and peppermint. The volatile oils obtained from plants
cultivated in Mitcham and Hitchin command a considerably higher price
than those from other localities, this preference being justified only
by the delicacy of their perfume. Cannes is best suited for roses,
acacias, jasmine, and neroli, while in Nimes, thyme, rosemary, and
lavender are chiefly cultivated. Nice is celebrated for its violets,
while Sicily furnishes the lemon and orange, and Italy the iris and
bergamotte.
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