A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Star anise oil_ very much resembles the ordinary anise-seed oil. It
is obtained from star anise, the fruit of _Illicium anisatum_, a tree
formerly supposed to be indigenous to Cochin China, and cultivated in
China, Japan, and the Phillipine Islands. However, according to Messrs.
Bourgeoin-Meiffre, a French firm of Hanoï (Tonkin), the star anise oil
found in commerce is exclusively produced in the French colony Tonkin
(Province Langson), the French government having made over the entire
sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm.
According to a memoir published by Dr. Blondel, of Paris, the star
anise tree is not indigenous to the Chinese provinces Yunnan, Quang-si,
and Fo-Rien, but to the province Langson, which has by conquest passed
into French possession. Hence, the producers of star anise and star
anise oil are now under French control and, as it seems, are obliged
to sell all the oil produced to the above-mentioned firm. If these
statements should prove correct, the Chinese harbors Macao and Hong
Kong, from which the greater portion of star anise oil was formerly
exported, will lose their importance in this respect and the product
find its way direct from Hanoï _via_ Hayphong to Marseilles. The first
shipment from Bourgeoin-Meiffre arrived in Europe in December, 1890.
According to Messrs. Schimmel & Co.'s report, the product is put up and
packed exactly like that formerly shipped from Hong Kong, and the oil
of excellent quality.
Star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in containing a much
smaller quantity of anethol, and hence congealing only at a temperature
of from 41° to 50° F. Besides the odor of the terpene contained in star
anise oil differs from that of the ordinary oil. Admixtures of star
anise oil can, therefore, be generally recognized by the odor. Other
methods recommended for its detection are unreliable.
_Balm oil._--The leaves of this plant, _Melissa officinalis_, yield
by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of melissa. It is
colorless or yellowish, of a pleasant odor, has a specific gravity of
0.85 to 0.92, shows a slightly acid reaction and dissolves in 2 to 3
parts of alcohol. It must not be confounded with the so-called East
India oil of melissa or citronella oil from _Andropogon Nardus L._ Balm
oil is occasionally used in the preparation of _eau de Cologne_.
_Basil oil_ is distilled in Southern France from the fresh leaves
of _Ocymum basilicum L._, natural order _Labiatæ_. The oil shows
the peculiar odor of the herb and crystallizes a few degrees above
32° F. In perfumery it is used as an addition to violet and other
preparations. The French also prepare a _pommade basilique_, which
serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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