A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Bayberry oil_, or _oil of bay leaves_, is extracted by distillation
from the leaves of _Myrcia acris_ or the bayberry tree. Many varieties
of the tree exist throughout the West Indies, which are scarcely to
be distinguished botanically, but have quite a different odor from
that of the genuine tree. Great care must, therefore, be taken in the
collection of the leaves which are to be used, as the admixture of a
small quantity of the other leaves may entirely spoil the product of
distillation. Two oils are obtained, a light oil of specific gravity of
0.870 to 0.990, and a heavy oil with specific gravity 1.023 to 1.037.
When first distilled the oil is colorless, but by exposure to the air
quickly acquires a yellowish tint and, if the exposure be continued,
becomes quite dark in color. The odor of the freshly-distilled oil is
rank, but in the course of from three to six months it becomes mellow,
and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in the best
specimens of bay-rum. The oil is soluble in all proportions in 95 per
cent. alcohol, also in ether and petroleum benzine. Its chief use is
for the preparation of bay-rum.
_Bergamot oil_ is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of _citrus
bergamia_, a tree belonging to the natural order _Aurantiaceæ_. The
rind is grated and the oil running off separated from the aqueous
fluid and cellular substance by means of a separating funnel, or
the grated mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid. The oil
is very fluid and pale yellow, but poorer qualities are frequently
greenish or brownish. When distilled with water it becomes perfectly
colorless, but is less durable. Its odor is very pleasant, somewhat
like a mixture of orange and lemon oils. Its specific gravity is 0.87
to 0.89. By standing for some time, the oil separates white crystalline
scales (stearoptene), which melt at 223° F. The oil becomes solid a
few degrees below the freezing point. The Messina oil of bergamot is
considered the best. From other volatile oils of the orange family,
bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic potash, forming
a clear solution. It has, however, the same property as other oils of
a similar origin, of igniting with iodine and not dissolving santalin,
the red resinous coloring matter of santal-wood.
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