A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Oil of lavender is frequently adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, fat
oils, oil of turpentine, and spike oil. To test the oil, mix a drop
of it with 10 cubic centimeters of warm water, and test the odor,
which should be pure and agreeably lavender-like. The taste of the
vigorously agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic. One
volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture with one volume of
dilute alcohol (specific gravity 0.895), but a perfectly clear one
with three volumes. On shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a
few grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored, but, in the presence
of even a trace of alcohol, it acquires a red coloration. By mixing
in a graduated cylinder equal volumes of the oil and distilled water,
and shaking vigorously, the oil, after the water has settled, shows
a decrease in volume if alcohol be present. The presence of fat oil
can be readily recognized by bringing a drop of the oil to be tested
upon filtering paper; a grease stain is formed, which disappears
neither at the ordinary temperature nor by heating. Adulteration with
oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point, that of oil of
turpentine being 312.8° F., and that of oil of lavender, as previously
stated, 366.8° F.
Spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol;
the contrary would indicate adulteration with oil of turpentine.
For perfumery, lavender oil is of great importance, it being much
employed by itself, as well as mixed with other oils.
_Lemon oil_ (_oleum limonis_) is obtained by various processes from the
rinds of lemons. The best and most delicately-scented oil is obtained
by the so-called sponge process in use in Southern Italy and Sicily.
The rinds are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water, to
which sometimes a little soda is added. They are taken up singly in the
right hand and the outer surface of each is firmly pressed against a
large and rather hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured
by a strap. Two or three sharp turns of the wrist impart what may be
called a screw-pressure to the rind, thus effectually fracturing the
oil cells, the sponge absorbing the contents. The sponge is constantly
held over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it. The fluid
in the jar quickly separates into three different products--the dregs
or deposit of mucilaginous and cellular matter, some fruit juice, and
the pure oil, which floats on the top. The latter, when bright and
clear, is passed, by means of a small glass siphon, into the cans of
thin copper, in which, after sealing, it is stored away for export.
The above described primitive mode of fabrication furnishes the most
highly prized oils of commerce; they are called hand-pressed oils
or _essences preparées a l'éponge_. In the same manner are obtained
the oils from the sweet and bitter pomegranate, the bergamotte, and
mandarin orange.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account