A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Another method of expressing the oil is that of the _écuelle à piquer_,
much used in the region about Nice. The oils obtained by this method,
which are also of a very fine quality, are marked _essence à l'écuelle_
or _au zeste_. The apparatus consists of a round shallow pan of copper
or brass, having a receptacle for the oil at its lowest part and a lip
on one side for pouring, and studded on its concavity by strong blunt
spikes. The workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly
around the inside of the _écuelle_; the spikes prick the oil sacs,
whereupon the oil, running down the spikes and the concavity of the
pan, collects in the reservoir at the lowest part. The oil is filtered
and then poured into clean glass bottles, in which the impurities are
allowed to settle.
In Reggio, where especially much bergamot oil is manufactured,
sheet-metal bowl-like vessels, studded inside with sharp ribs, are
used. Six to eight fruits are placed in the vessel. A movable lid
closes the vessel, so that there is just enough space for the fruits
between the lid and the bottom of the vessel. If now the lid be
revolved by hand-or steam-power, the rinds of the fruit are torn apart,
and the oil together with the juice runs through the sieve-bottom of
the apparatus into a cylindrical vessel where it clarifies.
The third method of obtaining the oil is by _expression_. The grated
rind is placed in hair mats, and subjected to powerful pressure by
means of a screw or lever press.
The process of _distillation_ is carried on as follows: The peels,
which should be from select fruit, are sprinkled with powdered salt,
and a few hours afterwards sufficient water to moisten them is poured
over them. A day or two afterwards more water is added, and the whole
is distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam, at first
purely fragrant, begins to acquire a rank and rather unpleasant smell.
The oil obtained by distillation is inferior to the others.
[Illustration: FIG. 20.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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