A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Orange-flower oil_ or _neroli oil_ (_oleum florum aurantii_; _ol.
neroli_; _ol. naphæ_) is obtained by distillation from the flowers of
the bitter orange; while the flowers of the sweet orange yield the
so-called _neroli-Portugal oil_, which is far inferior to the other.
On the French Riviera, the orange is especially cultivated for
obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling purposes. At Cannes,
Le Cannet, Golfe-Juan, Vallauris, Biot, Vence, Le Bar, Antibes, Le
Cap, Nice, and Mentone, the bitter orange, whose flowers are very
numerous and especially suitable for perfumery, is chiefly cultivated.
Cannes and Le Cannet alone possess 150,000 to 160,000 such trees, and
Golfe-Juan and Vallauris 200,000. The flowers harvested in Golfe-Juan
amount to about 700,000 lbs., in Le Cannet to about 330,000 lbs., at
Cannes to about 130,000 lbs., and in Antibes, Mentone, and Nice to
about 260,000 lbs. One orange tree yields, according to its age, from
2 to 17 lbs. of flowers. The distillation of neroli oil has also been
lately commenced in Sicily and Calabria, but as far as quality is
concerned, the oil thus far brought into commerce cannot compete with
the French oil.
Oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or straw-yellow,
but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for some time. In a clear glass
it opalizes bluish. It is limpid and has a slightly bitter taste and
a strong but very delicious odor. Its specific gravity varies between
0.85 and 0.90. It is but sparingly soluble in water, but imparts to
the latter an agreeable odor; the solution is colored red by sulphuric
acid. With 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, the oil gives a clear
solution which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol and,
after standing quietly, a flaky separation of stearoptene is observed.
If not carefully kept the oil becomes darker and even acquires a
disagreeable odor. By rectification with water oil thus spoiled can
be restored. With sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas; it
detonates with iodine.
Of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in commerce "_Neroli
petale_" is the best.
Neroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to many adulterations.
Mierzinski even asserts that no genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs
in commerce, because it is a well-known fact that what is sold as
genuine, pure neroli oil, consists on an average of 4/8 genuine neroli
oil, 1/8 oil of bergamot, and 3/8 petit-grain oil. Furthermore, it
is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds of _Aurantiaceæ_,
unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits and even young shoots of
the branches and leaves are subjected to distillation. This assertion
perhaps goes too far, but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the
oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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