A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
A very frequent adulteration consists in an addition of petit-grain
oil. Such an addition can only be recognized by the taste and odor.
For this purpose add to 3 drops of oil in a small bottle 10 grammes
of distilled water, and, after shaking vigorously, test as to the
odor and taste. According to Chevalier, pour 1 or 2 drops of the oil
upon sugar and stir the latter in water; if the oil is not genuine the
water acquires a bitter taste. Hager recommends the following test:
Mix 3 drops of the oil in a test-tube with 40 to 50 drops of alcohol;
add, after complete solution, about ⅓ the volume of the solution of
concentrated sulphuric acid, and effect mixture by careful shaking.
Pure oil gives a turbid, reddish, dark-brown mixture (with old oil,
dark brown); almost all other oils, which may be substituted, give
paler-colored (reddish, red, or ocher-color) mixtures; or, in case the
genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine, the mixture exhibits a
considerably less dark-color. When this test has been several times
executed with genuine oil, no room for doubt is left. If the mixture be
diluted with four times its volume of water, it becomes yellowish and
milky.
The odor of orange flowers is, according to Soubeiran, due to two
volatile oils, of which the one having the most delicious odor is
soluble in water. The other volatile oil, of which the neroli oil
of commerce chiefly consists, is sparingly soluble in water, and
does not possess such a delicious odor. This is the reason why good
orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating water with neroli
oil. The genuine orange-flower water is obtained as a by-product in
distilling the oil.
Neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes, it being especially
a necessary constituent of _eau de Cologne_. It has to be carefully
protected from air and light. For perfuming purposes it is only
sufficiently ripe after having been stored for at least one year. If,
however, it becomes too old, it inclines towards rancidity, which may
be prevented by compounding it with an equal volume of fine spirit.
Portugal oil being of inferior quality can only be used for lower grade
products.
_Petit grain oil_ (_oleum petit grain_) is obtained by distillation
from the leaves, young shoots and unripe fruits of different
_Aurantiaceæ_. The best oil is that distilled from the leaves of the
bitter orange, it possessing an odor similar to that of neroli oil,
but, of course, not so fine. Southern France was formerly the chief
place for the production of this oil, but considerable quantities of
it are now manufactured in Paraguay, and the oil at present brought
from there into commerce being of quite a good quality and considerably
cheaper than the French oil, has almost entirely supplanted the latter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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