A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
In the Penang market two kinds of oil, one _green_ and the other
_gold-brown_, are distinguished. Though both are sold at the same
price, there is a greater demand for the green oil. According to the
statements of the distillers, the brown oil is derived from the leaves
of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young plants. It
would seem, however, that the color is dependent on the soil upon which
the plants are grown, as well as upon atmospheric influences. When ruku
is distilled with patchouli leaves, the oil is yellow and thickly-fluid.
In Germany, the oil is now distilled from imported leaves. It is
thickly-fluid, of a brown color, and, in an undiluted state, possesses
a disagreeable, almost musty odor. However, when sufficiently diluted
and suitably mixed with other volatile oils, the odor is far more
agreeable, and for this reason it has for some time played an important
part in the manufacture of perfumery. It has the advantage of being
very yielding and lasting, but, on the other hand, possesses the
disadvantage of not combining with other perfumes, so that its odor is
always perceptible. It should always be used in very small quantities
or much diluted.
In commerce Penang oil and French oil are distinguished, the first
having a specific gravity of 0.959 and the latter of 1.012. When
kept for any length of time the oil deposits patchouli-camphor
(C_{15}H_{28}O) in prismatic crystals of 1.045 specific gravity and
melting at 127 to 129° F. These crystals have a peculiar, very lasting
odor.
Patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, the
contrary indicating that it is not pure. It is chiefly adulterated with
cedar oil.
_Peppermint oil._--The _Mentha_ family furnishes commerce with three
oils differing essentially from each other--_oil of curled mint_,
_peppermint oil_, _and poley oil_.
_Oil of curled mint_ (_oleum menthæ crispæ_) is separated by
distillation with water from the leaves of _Mentha crispa, Linn._ It
is limpid, yellowish, sometimes greenish; in time it becomes darker
and more thickly-fluid. Its specific gravity varies between 0.890 and
0.965. It has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent, somewhat
cooling, slightly bitterish taste. It is soluble in all proportions in
90 per cent. alcohol. In commerce a distinction is made between German
and American oil of curled mint, the latter generally containing oil
of turpentine and oil of sassafras. Odor, taste, and the alcohol test
suffice for the determination of the quality of the oil.
Oil of curled mint contains a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, and a body
isomeric with carvol, the carvol of curled mint, C_{10}H_{14}O. Its
specific gravity, boiling point and chemical properties are the same as
those of the carvol of caraway oil, but it differs from it by its odor
and turning the plane of polarization to the opposite direction. In
conjunction with other volatile oils, oil of curley mint is sometimes
used for perfuming soaps.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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