A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Orris root, oil of_ (_oleum iridis_), is obtained by distillation with
steam from the rhizomes of _Iris florentina_, which is cultivated in
Southern France, Dalmatia, and other regions. It has a yellow color
and, at an ordinary temperature, a quite solid consistency like butter
or wax, so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating. It consists
chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which the liquid odoriferous oil
adheres. The solid portion was formerly designated orris-stearoptene;
according to Flueckiger it is, however, myristic acid.
Oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for years without
suffering injury. It is recommended to keep it in stock in alcoholic
solution so that the myristic acid contained in it may to a certain
degree be etherized, and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous
principle.
Oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for strengthening the
natural odor of violets. It can, however, be employed only for very
fine expensive perfumery since, on account of the very slight yield
from the root (from 1000 parts ½ to ¾ part of oil), its price is
very high, generally exceeding that of rose oil.
An admixture of other volatile oils of less value would render the oil
fluid at the ordinary temperature.
_Patchouli oil._--By the name of patchouli are known, according to
L. Wray, Jr., the leaves of _Pogostemon patchouli, Pellet_, natural
order _Labiatæ_, indigenous to the East Indies, and known and used
for centuries in the various regions of China, Assam, and the
Malayan Islands. Most of the patchouli comes from the East Indies.
Before exportation it is sorted into three qualities: 1. _Selected_,
consisting of leaves only. 2. _Mixed_, leaves with slight peduncles
and few stems. 3. _Stalky leaves._ The best quality occurs seldom in
commerce since the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense.
According to Wray, the leaves are intentionally mixed with those of
the _ruku_ (_ocimum basilicum, L._), an herb indigenous to the Malayan
Islands. The leaves of the latter are broader than those of _pogostemon
patchouli_, and the stalks thinner and round. Seed-capsules are also
frequently found among the leaves, though patchouli seldom flowers and
bears seeds.
In Europe, patchouli has been an article of commerce since 1841. In
the Orient it is highly esteemed as a perfume. The Arabs even ascribe
remedial properties to it, and it is customary with them to fill their
pillows with the leaves to protect them from infection and prolong
their lives.
The peculiar, penetrating, though not exactly agreeable, odor of
patchouli leaves, is due to a volatile oil, of which they contain 1.5
to 2 per cent. In the Orient this oil has for many years been obtained
by distillation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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