A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Many attempts have been made to fraudulently make this congelation
appear within the limits of temperature permitted, paraffine which
dissolves well in rose oil being formerly frequently added. In such
case the oil may congeal at from 65.75° to 68° F., but the crystals are
opaque, dirty yellow, and dissolve to a turbid paste which collects on
the surface. The simplest method is to distil white roses with the red.
The resulting product has not as fine an odor as that from red roses
alone, but is richer in stearoptene. Such oil, which, unadulterated,
congeals perhaps at 68° F., can by the addition of geranium oil be
reduced to from 63.5° to 65.75° F., thus keeping within the limits
permitted.
Numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid and sure way for the
detection of geranium oil in rose oil, but thus far in vain. Attention
must also be drawn to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself
adulterated with oil of turpentine before being sold to the distillers
of rose oil.
Besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil, the actual geranium oils
from _Pelargonium odoratissimum_ and _P. roseum_, as well as rosewood
oil, sandal-wood oil, spermaceti, paraffine, and fat oils have been
mentioned as adulterants of rose oil. The geranium oils having a
by-odor of lemon oil, by which their presence could be readily detected
are not suitable for the purpose. Neither can rosewood or sandal-wood
oils be used, or at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be
immediately recognized. Attempts to adulterate rose oil by the addition
of a fat crystallizable body together with another volatile oil fail
on account of the characteristic properties of rose oil stearoptene,
which resembles no other body at present known. While rose oil
stearoptene is lighter than elæoptene and entirely volatile, spermaceti
possesses essentially different qualities. It does not form such long
and specifically light crystals as rose oil stearoptene; hence it
readily separates on the bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar
iridescent loamy formation. Furthermore it melts at 122° F., and not
being volatile, leaves, on heating, a greasy stain upon paper, while
the stearoptene melts at 95° F. and, on heating, volatilizes completely
without leaving a greasy stain behind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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