A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
If a rose oil is to be tested, expose the bottle containing the oil to
a moderate heat until the contents are entirely liquid; then gently
shake the bottle in order to bring about an intimate mixture of
elæoptene and stearoptene. Now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical
glass flask of 20 to 40 cubic centimeters' capacity and allow it
to congeal; then, while heating in the hand, observe how the rigid
portions act in liquefying. These rigid, crystalline portions should
be transparently clear and, being lighter than the fluid portion,
float, while liquefying, in the upper layer of the fluid. Hence, if
now the fluid be again allowed to congeal, the crystals should appear
within the upper half of the oil. The above-mentioned volatile oils
partially lack the property of separating a stearoptene in crystals at
from 33.8° to 50° F., and though they may have a rose odor, it is not
the mild, fragrant odor of genuine rose oil. To recognize the latter,
Guibourt makes use of pure concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir together
in a watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and of the acid;
pure rose oil preserves its characteristic odor, while the foreign oils
exhibit a disagreeable odor even when mixed with genuine rose oil.
Schimmel & Co. give a method for an approximate quantitative
determination of spermaceti in rose oil: Boil 3 to 5 grammes of
stearoptene, separated in the manner above given, with 20 to 25 grammes
of 5 per cent. alcoholic potash lye for 5 to 6 hours; then evaporate
the alcohol and compound the residue with hot water. In cooling, the
greater portion of the stearoptene separates in a crystalline mass upon
the surface. Now pour off the alkaline fluid, wash the stearoptene
with cold water, then melt it again in hot water, allow it to cool,
pour off the water, and repeat the same operations until the wash-water
is neutral. The combined aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to
remove any stearoptene suspended in them. The alcoholic lye separated
from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric acid and again
extracted with ether. After evaporation no residue (fatty acids) should
remain. To control the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried
at 194° F., adding, of course, the ether used for extracting the
alkaline fluid. There will be a small loss, since small quantities of
stearoptene always evaporate in drying.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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