A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
The elementary constituents of resins are carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen;
but, generally speaking, they are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon.
Chemically they behave like weak acids, their solutions frequently
reddening litmus and sometimes expelling, on boiling, the carbonic acid
from alkaline carbonates.
Independent of a possible content of volatile oil, every naturally
occurring resin consists of several resins which, however, can, as a
rule, be separated only with difficulty.
The resins are generally divided into _hard resins_, _soft resins_
or _balsams_, and _gum-resins_. The hard resins are, at the ordinary
temperature, solid, hard, and brittle, can be readily pulverized, and
contain little or no volatile oil. The soft resins or balsams are
kneadable, and sometimes even semi-fluid; they represent solutions of
resins in volatile oils, or a mixture of volatile oil and resin. On
exposure to the air they are changed by the volatile oil suffering
oxidation, they becoming then more or less hard, and may be converted
into actual resins. The gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum,
resin, and volatile oils, and are obtained by inspissation of the milky
juice of several plants. When triturated with water they yield a milky,
turbid fluid, and dissolve only partially in alcohol.
The resins are widely diffused in the vegetable kingdom, there
being scarcely a plant which does not contain resin in one form or
another. Some families of plants and organs of plants are, however,
distinguished by their special wealth of resins. The resins are, as a
rule, secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special reservoirs,
from which they flow out naturally at certain periods, or are obtained
by incisions made in the plants. A few bodies of the character of
resins also occur in the animal kingdom, and a series of them, the
fossil resins, are generally classed in the mineral kingdom, though
most of them are very likely derived from plants. Some resins, such as
the aldehyde resins, etc., are purely artificial products.
Of the hard resins, benzoin alone is used in perfumery; of the balsams,
Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, and storax balsam; and of the gum-resins, the
myrrh.
_Benzoin_ is exclusively obtained from _Styrax benzoïn, Dryand_
(_Benzoïne officinale, Hayne_), a tree which grows in Java, Sumatra,
and Siam. The bark of the tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out,
which concretes on the trunk in the form of grains, or is collected
in vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of lumps
("tampangs"). Older trees which have been frequently tapped for resin
yield a product of a lower quality; the grains ("tears") forming, as a
rule, the better varieties. When the benzoin collects in large masses
it always shows an amygdaloid structure, the grains ("almonds") of a
roundish form, smooth termination, homogeneous structure, and paler
color, appearing imbedded in a dark, porous, or resiniform mass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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