A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of wintergreen oil with
camphor oil is carried on at a large scale. The presence of camphor
oil may be recognized by the specific gravity, 0.900, while that of
pure wintergreen oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test--which is,
however, readily executed--is as follows: Stir a few drops of the
suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil in a few seconds sinks to the
bottom, but if it contains camphor oil several minutes elapse before it
deposits, and there is time to observe that the particles of oil assume
different forms, but not a globular one.
_Ylang-Ylang oil_ (_oleum unonæ_) is obtained by distilling the flowers
of _Unona odoratissima_, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, the
Straits of Malacca, and Indian Archipelago. The oil is colorless to
yellowish. Its color and specific gravity, however vary very much,
according to the season of the year in which it is prepared, the oil
distilled in the cold season being more colorless and limpid than that
produced in the warm season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking
of the jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of the
finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in commerce, that marked
"Sartorius" being preferred.
The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil found in commerce
is chiefly due to the method of preparation and the selection of the
flowers, which possess the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In
distilling, the first light volatile portions passing over have an
incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later on possesses
an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer, who only obtains the first
portions, will furnish the finest quality of oil, and it is this
method of preparation which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high
reputation. While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 lbs. of
fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 lbs. of oil, Sartorius for the
preparation of his fine oil distils off only about half the quantity.
_Conanga oil_ is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil, obtained from
the same plant. Two varieties are distinguished in commerce, viz: the
_Javanese_ and _Indian_. The Java oil is the best, and may be used
where ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According to
Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is very resistant and
durable in soaps, especially when combined with licari or linaloë oil.
CHAPTER V.
RESINS AND BALSAMS.
The term _resins_ is applied to certain organic substances which are
very closely related to volatile oils, in so far as many of them are
formed from the latter by oxidation. As previously mentioned, by
exposure to the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change,
whereby they thicken and are finally converted into substances
possessing the character of resins. In nature most resins also occur
mixed with volatile oils.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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