British -- Palestine -- Fiction; Disguise -- Fiction; Short stories; Travel -- Fiction
I went away by myself to the end of the island, and then I did bathe. It
is impossible to conceive anything more desolate than the appearance of
the place. The land shelves very gradually away to the water, and the
whole margin, to the breadth of some twenty or thirty feet, is strewn
with the débris of rushes, bits of timber, and old white withered reeds.
Whence these bits of timber have come it seems difficult to say. The
appearance is as though the water had receded and left them there. I
have heard it said that there is no vegetation near the Dead Sea; but
such is not the case, for these rushes do grow on the bank. I found it
difficult enough to get into the water, for the ground shelves down very
slowly, and is rough with stones and large pieces of half-rotten wood;
moreover, when I was in nearly up to my hips the water knocked me down;
indeed, it did so when I had gone as far as my knees, but I recovered
myself; and by perseverance did proceed somewhat farther. It must not be
imagined that this knocking down was effected by the movement of the
water. There is no such movement. Everything is perfectly still, and
the fluid seems hardly to be displaced by the entrance of the body; but
the effect is that one’s feet are tripped up, and that one falls
prostrate on to the surface. The water is so strong and buoyant, that,
when above a few feet in depth has to be encountered, the strength and
weight of the bather are not sufficient to keep down his feet and legs.
I then essayed to swim; but I could not do this in the ordinary way, as I
was unable to keep enough of my body below the surface; so that my head
and face seemed to be propelled down upon it.
I turned round and floated, but the glare of the sun was so powerful that
I could not remain long in that position. However, I had bathed in the
Dead Sea, and was so far satisfied.
Anything more abominable to the palate than this water, if it be water, I
never had inside my mouth. I expected it to be extremely salt, and no
doubt, if it were analysed, such would be the result; but there is a
flavour in it which kills the salt. No attempt can be made at describing
this taste. It may be imagined that I did not drink heartily, merely
taking up a drop or two with my tongue from the palm of my hand; but it
seemed to me as though I had been drenched with it. Even brandy would
not relieve me from it. And then my whole body was in a mess, and I felt
as though I had been rubbed with pitch. Looking at my limbs, I saw no
sign on them of the fluid. They seemed to dry from this as they usually
do from any other water; but still the feeling remained. However, I was
to ride from hence to a spot on the banks of Jordan, which I should reach
in an hour, and at which I would wash; so I clothed myself, and prepared
for my departure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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