A rough sketch of modern Paris : $b or, Letters on society, manners, public curiosities, and amusements, in that capitalLemaistre, J. G. (John Gustavus)
History
A rough sketch of modern Paris : $b or, Letters on society, manners, public curiosities, and amusements, in that capital
Lemaistre, J. G. (John Gustavus)
Paris (France) -- Description and travel
Though we left Calais at break of day, and did not stop either to
breakfast or to dine, we did not reach Montreuil, where we proposed
sleeping the first night, till sunset. Here we found excellent
accommodations, at the inn celebrated by Sterne. The house has, indeed,
nothing to recommend it, in point of outward show; and, in this respect,
differs entirely from the generality of french hotels: but if comfortable
beds, superiorly good cooking, and the smiling attention of two very
pretty girls, who act as waiters, are any attractions, I can safely point
out this inn, as one at which my countrymen will do right to stop.
From Montreuil we proceeded the next day, through a fine country and
bad roads, to Amiens. The cultivation seemed good, and in the villages
through which we passed, the peasants were well clad. In the towns,
the number of beggars was as great as formerly. At every post, we were
surrounded with the old, the blind, and the lame; some of whom, not
satisfied with vociferating their complaints, actually climbed up the
springs of the carriage, and put their faces within the windows, more
effectually to draw our notice.
The waiters, post boys, and landlords, were every where remarkably
civil, and all expressed their joy at seeing once again amongst them
“_les milords Anglais_,” by which title they have not forgotten to call,
and to tax accordingly, all english travellers. The people appear to
me not only civil, but respectful, and infinitely more so, than before
the revolution. The reason is plain, the old _noblesse_ treated their
inferiors with a degree of familiarity, which produced in the latter
a mode of speaking, that, to an english ear, seemed highly offensive,
but which the french permitted, because they could check it at their
pleasure. The loss of their rank has now compelled the higher classes to
command respect by a distance of manner, which has of course produced a
similar conduct in the persons beneath them.
At Amiens, we drove to “l’hôtel d’Angleterre,” where we were
magnificently and miserably lodged. Fine rooms, superbly furnished;
windows and doors, which would neither keep out the rain nor wind; bad
fires, and a worse supper, formed the complete picture of a french inn,
and the colouring of extravagant charges was not omitted.
Starved with cold and hunger we left Amiens by break of day, on friday
morning; and after travelling through a country, the beauty of which
increased every step with the increasing badness of the roads, we at
length reached Chantilly, not a little pleased at having escaped the
dangers of a broken neck. At the post office, which is a new inn, built
since the revolution, directly fronting the park of the _ci-devant
château_, we found good beds, and a comfortable supper, prepared by the
kind attention of some english friends, who had preceded us on the road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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