A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 1 (of 3)Keppel, Henry, Sir
History
A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 1 (of 3)
Keppel, Henry, Sir
Admirals -- Great Britain -- Biography; Great Britain. Royal Navy
At almost every forty or fifty miles there is a distinct race, whose
names and customs are different, and who can scarcely understand each
other’s language.
At Dixcove the natives regard alligators as fetish or sacred. At Cape
Coast, a few miles from this, they destroy them. At Accra, I believe,
the hyæna is fetish.
On the western side of the town of Dixcove is a small river, and the
mouth being choked up with sand, it had spread itself into a swamp,
covering about half an acre of ground.
In this are many crocodiles, frequently known to devour goats, fowls,
etc., when near the banks. These reptiles, as well as snakes, are
considered fetish, and are worshipped by the natives.
Near the river lives an old fetish woman, who is held in awe and
treated with great respect by the natives. She is supposed to have
great power over crocodiles. I went with the Resident to see this
extraordinary fact. On being applied to, the old hag issued from her
hut.
She was covered with a sort of white mud-wash, and wore about her
person several absurd superstitious ornaments, such as a pair of goat’s
horns, some tiger’s teeth, and several pieces of gold. Her body was
uncovered down to the waist; her breasts hung down like the flaps of
an old saddle. She was nearly blind from age, and supported herself by
a long, mysterious-looking stick. The witch took her position under
a tree, and to my astonishment I saw one of these horrid-looking
crocodiles, after having been invoked and charmed for some minutes by
her (she held a doomed chicken in her hand, and while going through
many extraordinary gestures and motions, repeated some unintelligible
jargon), gradually emerge from the rushes on the opposite side, where
he had been entirely hid from view, swim across, and creep up the bank
towards where we stood. My first impulse was to bolt, but on turning
round I felt ashamed. A number of native women, with their children,
stood by, apparently without the slightest fear, so much confidence had
they in the power of the old woman over the reptile. I therefore stood
my ground manfully, and allowed the crocodile to approach within a yard
of me, and receive the chicken from the old hag at the end of a reed.
I certainly felt a great relief when the brute crushed the unfortunate
bird, feathers and all, which he seized in the most ungracious and
savage manner, and turned again into the river. I had seen crocodiles
before, both in the East and West Indies, but never heard of their
facing a concourse of people.
The people trade in palm-oil and gold-dust.
Mr. Swansen, the Resident of Dixcove, is a young man of about
two-and-twenty. He had very comfortable, roomy quarters in the fort,
and was the only white man in the settlement. Nothing could surpass his
kindness and attention.
[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
Anchored off Elmina. Fort St. George, the chief settlement of the
Dutch, is the largest and handsomest place on the coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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