I saluted on anchoring, and the Governor immediately sent off a large canoe to convey me on shore. I was shown all over the fort; which mounts 62 guns, is of great extent, and kept in beautiful order. The Dutch are very proud of this place, having taken it from the Portuguese more than two centuries ago, retaining it ever since. Fort St. Jago I was not allowed to see; it was his weakest point, and the Governor wasn’t anxious to show it. The Dutch Government carry on a traffic in slaves, under the plea of raising recruits for their East India possessions. The negroes are bought from the Ashanti chiefs, embarked for Batavia, and told they are free men. I observed several neat and comfortable-looking houses, with gardens attached, belonging to the merchants, most of whom I met at the Governor’s table, where I was hospitably entertained. Almost every one spoke English. [Sidenote: Oct. 23.] Cape Coast is only nine miles to the eastward of Elmina, where we anchored following morning. CHAPTER XIX CAPE COAST CASTLE [Sidenote: 1837.] The anchor was no sooner down than a large canoe with four-and-twenty paddles was alongside, waiting orders. [Sidenote: Oct. 23.] I went on shore with several of the officers, in straw hats and round jackets, expecting a wetting; the surf ran high. We, however, landed perfectly dry, but had no sooner touched the shore than a salute was fired, and, on entering the square of the fort, I found the garrison turned out. The band struck up “God save the Queen,” which I now heard for the first time, and the guard presented arms. I took off my hat, which I tried to hide, and bowed to everybody. On a promise from the Resident that I should be treated with no further ceremony, I composed myself with an excellent glass of “Madeira.” Cape Coast Castle, as well as the other English settlements along the coast, was given up by Government about ten years previously to a company, with the allowance of £3500 a year, with which they pay a garrison and keep the forts in repair. They manage, I suppose, by a liberal supply from their own coffers, to do everything in excellent style, and I believe no garrisons under Government can be conducted with greater regularity or kept in better order than these on the western coast of Africa. Since then trade has increased. The Ashantis, with whom we were constantly at war, became good allies, and confidence re-established. As a proof of this, his Ashanti Majesty has sent two of his sons to England to be educated, and a regular and constant communication is kept with Coomassie, the capital.