A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 1 (of 3)Keppel, Henry, Sir
History
A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 1 (of 3)
Keppel, Henry, Sir
Admirals -- Great Britain -- Biography; Great Britain. Royal Navy
We started, a large party. From the novelty of the scene, the various
and curious modes of conveyance, etc., made it to us a most agreeable
and amusing excursion. The usual conveyance is in a long narrow basket,
carried on the heads of a couple of natives, in which you can lie
your length; nothing being visible from the outside but your toes and
nose, which gives you the appearance of a corpse. A few were conveyed
in a sort of Sedan chair, and several in little light four-wheeled
carriages, which are drawn by four men, with two more behind to push
uphill. Being drawn in a carriage by human beings sounds contrary to
our English ideas, but it is only in the name. They are well paid and
worked easily; choosing always their own pace; and I never saw children
enjoy the fun of drawing along a little cart more than these blacks did
that of drawing the Resident and myself along six miles of bad road.
Mr. Swansen’s comfortable cottage we found prettily situated on the
summit of a hill, at the foot of which ran a small river. At the back
and sides were mountains covered with impenetrable jungle, which the
natives were endeavouring to clear. But the fore-part of the hill on
which the house stood was already covered with cotton, coffee, tobacco,
and other plants, springing up most luxuriously. A vast number of
natives had collected to greet our arrival, and were performing one
of the wildest and most picturesque dances. A more agreeable sight,
however, and which, I believe, was the chief object of our journey, was
an excellent dinner, to which we did ample justice.
[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
We visited an adjoining village, luckily on some fête day, as all
the people were dressed in their best. The chiefs of the village,
with their attendants, came down to welcome us with trumpets, and
a great noise was made with various nondescript instruments. Many
curiously-rigged personages, whose offices I could not exactly make
out, were in attendance. They danced round us, gave us palm-wine to
drink, and fired off muskets close to us--in short, the nearer the
muzzle is to your ear without blowing your head off the greater the
compliment. It was dark before we got back to the town, when we
finished with another dinner at Mr. Swansen’s.
We took leave of our friends at Cape Coast, having passed two agreeable
days, the large canoe being in attendance.
Cape Coast is certainly not more unhealthy than most tropical climates,
and some weeks might be passed very pleasantly; but there are two
serious objections--neither horses nor white women ever live there. The
famous authoress, “L. E. L.,” was the last victim.
[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
Anchored off British Accra. The fort is neat, and in first-rate order,
but not so large as Cape Coast. This is another settlement. The country
is open, and roads are good to the extent of thirty miles. What
rendered it so agreeable was the kindness and attention shown by Mr.
Bannerman, well known to the Navy employed on this coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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