A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 1 (of 3)Keppel, Henry, Sir
History
A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 1 (of 3)
Keppel, Henry, Sir
Admirals -- Great Britain -- Biography; Great Britain. Royal Navy
Accra is famous for the quantity and fineness of its gold-dust. Many
pretty rings are made here of the purest gold. Ivory is also to be
obtained.
Adjoining, and to the eastward is Dutch Accra, with the remains of a
fort, destroyed in 1821 by the English, which the Dutch Governor told
me had been washed down by the sea.
Two miles further is a Danish fort and town, all three flags flying
within range of each other’s guns.
Accra has an odd appearance from the sea. I rode over to Danish Accra
to call on the Governor, and was received with a guard and salute. The
natives are much the same in appearance as at Cape Coast, and equally
superstitious; among many other absurdities, the untamable hyena is
here fetish. These animals come into the town at night and commit
depredations with impunity. They imitate the noises of the different
animals, and particularly the crying of a child.
A hyena a few nights back dropped two cubs in the street; the following
night she returned and took them away.
One of the merchants having shot a hyena while he was employed at night
in digging up the remains of a favourite horse, was obliged to make a
large _dash_ of rum and tobacco to appease the natives, who fancied
that all sorts of calamities would occur in consequence. No work is
done until a _dash_ is given.
When the Ashantis bring in gold they stop within a mile of the town and
send a messenger, waiting his return with a _dash_. Both men and women
drink the rum neat.
The cowry shell is used as money, twenty to a penny.
Good shooting may be had: partridges, hares, and snipe close to the
town, and at a short distance deer.
Stock of all sorts to be obtained at moderate prices, as well as beef
and mutton. Turtle may be picked up on a sandy beach.
[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
Gray parrots might be bought alongside, four for a dollar, bamboo cage
and all.
The last day at Accra we were most sumptuously entertained by the
Danish Governor. He had served as a Lieutenant in the French Navy, and
had met Goldsmith at Marseilles, who, being very anxious to sketch one
of the native women in full costume, the Governor good-naturedly got
one of the wives of the chiefs of the town. She made her appearance
after dinner, almost covered with finery, which she liked being
sketched. Her thighs and hips were covered with silver beads, which,
again, were covered by a red cotton dress--a sort of covering wound
round her body, all above her hips being left bare, as well as below
her knees. She had upwards of a thousand dollars’ worth of gold
ornaments on her. After this took our departure.
Under way just before sunset, and saluted the Danish flag in passing.
During a fortnight’s cruise in search of the senior officer we fell
in with _Saracen_, _Viper_, and _Waterwitch_. The latter is one of
Symonds’ beautiful brigs; she beat us to windward during half an hour’s
trial.
[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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