On June 5 we arrived at Madeira, at which enjoyable place we remained eight days. Here our Captain, his wife, children, and gig’s midshipman were entertained by the kindest of merchants, Mr. and Mrs. Bean, as well as by Mr. Gordon, a partner. Markets were full of fruits of all sorts--oranges, mountain strawberries, grapes, and bananas; ponies, donkeys, picnics, etc.; who would not be a midshipman? We appeared to be welcome everywhere. The troops and music I enjoyed, but, what appeared curious--drill orders to the soldiers were given in English--remnants of Peninsular! [Sidenote: June 21.] Our next stopping-place was St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. It was dull after bright Madeira. Markets were full of tropical fruits, monkeys, parrots, yams, and other vegetables, ground-nuts, etc. We remained one whole day. Of my next visit I retain some painful remembrances, but enough for the day is the evil thereof. We were now far within the tropics--flying-fish, porpoises, dolphin seldom out of sight; besides, I thought of that terrible “Line” of which I had heard so much. [Sidenote: July 4.] At 8 P.M. a light ahead was reported. We hove to. The sea-god Neptune came over the bows and reported to our captain his intention of paying a visit of welcome to all those who had not previously come within the tropics. He brought with him his secretaries, who inscribed the names of all first visitors. One old marine got off by stating he had served in the Peninsula! Soon after I observed a lighted tar-cask floating astern, and hoped that “His Majesty” was burning in it. The next morning he boarded and took possession, and found plenty of brutal followers to help him and all concerned in his disagreeable duties. I was seized by one of his greasy constables and conducted I knew not where, and seated on something which felt like a capstan-bar. My face was plastered with a mixture of tar and dirt, and scraped off with a jagged piece of iron representing a razor; then, tipped backwards into what I thought was overboard, I felt myself in the grip of other brutes representing Neptune’s bears, who held me till I had swallowed a sufficient portion of the filthy bath. I was then free for life to join any future orgie. The ducking-pond was formed by a sail secured at the corners to the combings, the centre lowered on to the main-deck, and filled from the wash-deck pump. On the stern of one of the boom-boats, overlooking the proceedings, was Neptune with Amphitrite by his side, on whose knee sat a promising young cub, son of the sail-maker; allowed on board by special permission before leaving England, apparently looking forward to superintending similar operations. I found my way into the Captain’s after-cabin, where my playfellows gave me a biscuit with jam and a little something to wash it down. [Illustration: _Consolation._] [Sidenote: July 17.]