After passing a refreshment-house at Santa Fé, we crossed the grand Puente del Rey, and began to ascend. It was curious how quickly we felt the agreeable change of climate, and enjoyed the fresh smell of trees and flowers, the sight of birds of various plumage, and small hares crossing the road. At San Rafael refreshed animals and selves at a decent _posada_. Smell of garlic we did not mind. At 3 P.M. we were welcomed at the hospitable establishment of Colonel Dashwood. Only a land-surveyor could describe the beauty of the scene--the great table-land in front, with its tropical vegetation, and the background of Perote and the snow-clad Orizaba, in the centre of the torrid zone, flanked by volcanic mountains. One understood how the gallant guardsman could have left his snug quarters in St. James’s. Xalapa was formerly the mart of New Spain; merchandise brought on mules to the annual fair. The apparently magnificent cathedral at the city of Mexico, a grand pile to look at, was, on account of the frequent earthquakes, built of bamboo and cane, and so plastered over. Visited some of the country villages, and was astonished to see the plaster figure of Our Saviour crucified as a black man! I will not attempt to describe the hospitality of our kind host. Mutton was the prevailing dish; the atmosphere suited sheep better than bullocks, but game and water-fowl were in plenty. I had an early taste for ornithology, and enjoyed many days with my gun in the adjacent forests. Oak-trees flourished on the tableland, and vegetables in its temperate climate. The tree which produces the drug jalap thrives here: about 200,000 lb. are exported annually. But I am getting out of my depth as a sailor, and our visit with the kind, hospitable Dashwood too soon came to an end. [Sidenote: Feb. 3.] Took leave of our kind host, arriving on board the following day. [Sidenote: February 5, 26; March 18, 23.] Sailed, cruising off and on Tampico, collecting dollars and cochineal, until 26th, when we sailed, and arrived at the Havana on March 18. Sailed again on the 23rd. [Sidenote: April 21.] Sighted the Lizard. EXTRACT FROM “HAMPSHIRE TELEGRAPH,” APRIL 28, 1827. On Tuesday the _Tweed_, Captain Frederick Hunn, arrived from Vera Cruz, Tampico, and the Havana, bringing half a million dollars on account of the Mexican Government, to pay interest on the Mexican Loan. Also one and a half million hard dollars, and 336 serons of cochineal, worth at present market value £40,000, on merchants’ account. [Sidenote: May 17.] Paid out of commission. CHAPTER V 1827 [Sidenote: 1827. May 18.] _Tweed_ was re-commissioned by Captain Lord John Churchill, of whom I had heard nothing but good. Was glad to find myself reappointed. Having returned from foreign service, I was entitled to leave, and was kindly received in my old quarters at Kensington Palace by H.R.H. the Duke of Sussex. [Sidenote: May-June.]