While detained waiting for the _Faust_, several shooting parties went forth, but with small results; those who went prepared only for snipe fell in with duck, and _vice versa_. However, a little earlier in the season, game of all sorts must be plentiful. Pheasants, ducks, teal, and the hog deer were to be purchased. [Sidenote: Mar. 17.] The steamer from Shanghai arrived on the 17th, but without the _Faust_, owing to a defect in her machinery. I therefore determined on proceeding for Hankow without further delay, promising, if possible, to explore the Poyang on my return, when we shall have the advantage of several feet rise of water. 4.15 P.M.--Slipped from buoy to run up as far as we could before dark, so as to ensure our reaching Hankow on the following day. [Sidenote: Mar. 18.] Weighed at five. We soon came to the most beautiful scenery we had yet met with. High hills rising immediately from the bank, with woods, a great improvement on the shrubs we had hitherto passed. The Spit Rock is a peculiar feature in a narrow pass. The high-water line was distinctly marked on the rocks some twenty feet above where we were. Among the curious things we met were immense timber rafts, each with its street of wooden houses. We came to off Hankow. Found _Opossum_ and a Russian gunboat, an old acquaintance of the Gulf of Tartary. The good people of Hankow are noted for their hospitality, and before leaving Shanghai, quarters were offered us in both the houses of Jardine and Mathieson, and Gilman and Co. We had agreed with Mr. Lavers to go to whichever house we should inconvenience the least, and they were to settle it between them. We were claimed by Mr. and Mrs. Ramsay, old friends of Mr. Gilman. A good fellow, Mr. Beveridge of Jardine’s house, expressed great disappointment at our not going to him, but most kindly took instead the whole of my staff, including Dob. [Sidenote: Hankow.] Hankow is only separated from Wu-chang and Han-yang by the Han and Yang-tse rivers. The surrounding country is flat, and as I could not look with commercial eyes on the adjacent cities, with their numerous junks that lined the shore, especially at the junction of the Han, where they seemed to form a deadlock, I am afraid I was a little disappointed with the celestial emporium. On shore, and along the walls, the high-water mark was clearly defined; about every three or four years the country is inundated, without, however, affecting the health of the place. Our countrywomen, and particularly the children, looked fresh and blooming. CHAPTER XCVII MEMORIES OF GORDON [Sidenote: 1869. Hankow, Mar. 19]