Mr. Caine, the Consul, and son of my old friend of former China days, having given notice of my intention the day previous, at 10 A.M. we crossed the river to Wu-chang, that I might pay my respects to the Viceroy. Besides the Consul and myself our party consisted of Swinhoe, Mr. Davenport, the consular interpreter, and Keppel Garnier, Flag Lieutenant. The Viceroy was Li Hung Chang, who had fought for eighteen years against the Tai-peng rebels and was considered the first general in the Imperialist Army. Gordon had held a command as brigadier-general under him, and Li it was who so treacherously put to death Lar Wang and nine of the rebel chiefs at the surrender of Soo-chow, on 7th December 1863, although Gordon had pledged himself for their safety. The only time that Gordon was known to carry arms were the two days after the execution of the Wangs, when, had he fallen in with Li, there would have been two holes in Li’s yellow waistcoat! Besides my curiosity to see this celebrated scoundrel, I wanted the loan of a most convenient little steamer, the _Hyson_, now lying in the river, which had performed such wonderful feats in co-operation with Gordon during the war. We landed about a quarter of a mile below a pagoda, just built or renovated, on the point where the city wall touches the river. Chairs, with the official number of bearers, were found ready, proceeded at once inside the city walls to the Viceroy’s Yamun. There was the usual rush of guards and deliberation before the outer gates were opened, although we were only punctual to our time. There is a regular etiquette on all ceremonial visits as to how far you may advance in your chair towards the first door of the three apartments, at which you are met by the person you visit. [Sidenote: Wu-chang.] I received the honour due to the highest rank, and was placed on a raised platform on the left of the Viceroy Li. Tea was ready, and another table with sweetmeats--the usual compliments of asking your age, health, and the balance of your family. Before I proceeded to announce my intention of proceeding up the river, His Excellency hoped I would not attempt to do so, urging that the natives were troublesome and unaccustomed to foreigners, and he could not be responsible for them. I replied that I had no fear with the passport of so great a man. To this he made objections and excuses. We then gathered round the sweetmeats and replied to numerous questions about armament and guns, all showing a warlike tendency. Viceroy Li is a tall, hard-looking man, and I should think quite capable of ridding himself and his country of any number of rebel kings, whether a British officer had become security or not. He seemed to take a great fancy to my Bath Star, and said he should recommend me to the Emperor for the distinguished order of the Imperial Dragon. Our interview lasted for over an hour.