A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 3 (of 3)Keppel, Henry, Sir
History
A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 3 (of 3)
Keppel, Henry, Sir
Admirals -- Great Britain -- Biography; Great Britain. Royal Navy
At 3 P.M. the _Fusiama_ steamer put in an appearance, with the _Faust_
in tow. She was quickly in readiness to proceed, but Risk had too much
work to get through, so the early morning was fixed for our next start.
_En route_ to take leave of the children, found them with Webb in sad
distress over a string of rats secured by wire to a six-foot stick.
With the _Faust_ came up two surveying officers, Dawson from _Sylvia_,
and Palmer, who had been serving in the _Insolent_ at Chefoo. We
managed to get two Chinese pilots, who knew something of the river as
far as Yoh-chow, at the entrance of the Tung-ting Lake. We had also our
Shanghai pilot, Mr. Pendleton, an intelligent man, experienced in river
navigation. With all this staff, and the _Opossum_ some days ahead to
look out for difficulties, the knowing ones were betting that I should
never reach I-Chang. There is a good and well-conducted club at Hankow.
[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
At 8 A.M. we had taken leave of the children and friends; a few
minutes after we were on our way to the interior of the Celestial
Empire--_Faust_, and a native boat hired by Messrs. Francis and Michi
to sleep in, in tow. Cannot say much for the interesting scenery, for
though the whole country is scarcely raised above the level of the
river from July to October, at the present time we were twenty feet
below. Except where there was a village we were steaming between mud
walls, on the top of which a few natives, or a boy on a buffalo with
the sky for a background, appeared, to break the monotony. When I say
between mud walls, the river was seldom less than half a mile wide.
We anchored at sunset, having had much bother with the hired native
boat. These craft are loosely put together, and do not stand towing
at any speed. This one looked like a lashed-up hammock. The woman on
board with a child in her arms roared to be released, declaring the
boat was filling and calling to her countrymen on the banks to come to
her rescue; but when Messrs Michi and Francis went on board the boat
was found to be all right, no attention was paid to her, while she
continued to roar and wipe her tears with the arm of her child, while
her crew joined in chorus: one of them, to prove his distress, lay on
his back kicking the air with his nailed boots.
[Sidenote: Tung-ting Lake, Mar. 26.]
At about 3 P.M. we had struck off from the Yang-tse to go down the
branch that leads to the Tung-ting Lake, and five miles farther came
to off Yo-chow, situated at the outlet. A high wall hid from our view
the city, which appears to have been built on a bluff; for healthiness
it must be as well, or better, than any of the towns we had passed.
Yo-chow is the great port for the wealthy province of Hainan, and I
should imagine well adapted for one of the Treaty Ports, but, opening
it would shut up Hankow, where sufficient money has already been
expended.
[Sidenote: Yo-chow.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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