We took our departure for the residence of the Reverend Mr. John, one of the greatest travellers in China, at whose house we found a real English luncheon. He had a pretty, lively little daughter and a wife who shared his labours. Mr. John afterwards accompanied us to the curio-shops, which were poorly provided and inferior to those in Hankow. He gave us much valuable information from the experience he had gained in the Upper Yang-tse, and seemed to think the _Salamis_ would have little difficulty in getting up to I-Chang, about 15 miles below the first rapids. [Sidenote: Mar. 20.] Among those we visited was the Russian Consul, who concocted a delicious beverage out of some rare green tea; so scarce that in a twelvemonth he could seldom succeed in getting more than 120 lbs., and that went to Russia for the Emperor’s use. There are several Russian merchants who have been located for years in the interior cities carrying on an extensive trade in furs, as well as silks and tea. Russians appear to have a greater facility in acquiring languages than other nations. In spite of the rain, cold, and damp, and anything but the best of meat, certainly the worst of cooking, we enjoyed ourselves. [Sidenote: Hankow, Mar. 21.] _Sunday._--We were astonished at the appearance, before tiffin, of our mail from England, four days before the expected time. Two Admirals dead, and I top of list of Vice; _Rodney_ ordered home. There is a neat little church in course of construction. Clergyman a Mr. MacClatchy; his wife a sister of Sir Harry Parkes. Of course there was a race-course, an agreeable and innocent amusement, our host being among the light weights and about the best rider. The old course was outside the city walls, on a flat some 12 miles in extent with scarcely a tree to be seen. In winter, I am told, the flat is covered with bustards, geese, and hares. [Illustration: _May and Webb._] The vessel that brought the mail did not bring the long-expected _Faust_, and our departure was deferred. The good Doctor Gregory kindly volunteering to look after my belongings, we left them, with the worthy Webb to help: it was not so bad an arrangement. [Sidenote: Mar. 24.]