WALES is a row of hills, rising between the Irish Sea on the west and the
English plains on the east. If you come from the west along the sea, or
if you cross the Severn or the Dee from the east, you will see that Wales
is a country all by itself. It rises grandly and proudly. If you are a
stranger, you will think of it as “Wales”—a strange country; if you are
Welsh, you will think of it as “Cymru”—a land of brothers.
The geologist will tell you how Wales was made; the geographer will tell
you what it is like now; the historian will tell you what its people have
done and what they are. All three will tell you that it is a very
interesting country.
The rocks of Wales are older and harder than the rocks of the plains; and
as you travel from the south to the north, the older and harder they
become. The highest mountains of Wales, and some of its hills, have
crests of the very oldest and hardest rock—granite, porphyry, and basalt;
and these rocks are given their form by fire. But the greater part of
the country is made of rocks formed by water—still the oldest of their
kind. In the north-west, centre, and west—about two-thirds of the whole
country,—the rocks are chiefly slate and shale; in the south-east they
are chiefly old red sandstone; in the north-east, but chiefly in the
south, they are limestone and coal.
Its rocks give Wales its famous scenery—its rugged peaks, its romantic
glens, its rushing rivers. They are also its chief wealth—granite,
slate, limestone, coal; and lodes of still more precious metals—iron,
lead, silver, and gold—run through them.
The highest mountain in Wales is Snowdon, which is 3,570 feet above the
level of the sea. For every 300 feet we go up, the temperature becomes
one degree cooler. At about 1,000 feet it becomes too cold for wheat; at
about 1,500 it becomes too cold for corn; at about 2,000 it is too cold
for cattle; mountain ponies graze still higher; the bleak upper slopes
are left to the small and valuable Welsh sheep.
There are three belts of soil around the hills—arable, pasture, and
sheep-run—one above the other. The arable land forms about a third of
the country; it lies along the sea border, on the slopes above the Dee
and the Severn, and in the deep valleys of the rivers which pierce far
inland,—the Severn, Wye, Usk, Towy, Teivy, Dovey, Conway, and Clwyd. The
pasture land, the land of small mountain farms, forms the middle third;
it is a land of tiny valleys and small plains, ever fostered by the warm,
moist west wind. Above it, the remaining third is stormy sheep-run, wide
green slopes and wild moors, steep glens and rocky heights.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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