A Sketch of Assam: With some account of the Hill TribesButler, John, Major
History
A Sketch of Assam: With some account of the Hill Tribes
Butler, John, Major
Assam (India) -- Description and travel; Assam (India) -- Social life and customs; Ethnology -- India -- Assam
The solitariness of my position, only enlivened by the song of eighteen
merry paddlers, pulling from morning till night, at the rate of forty
or fifty miles a day, against a rapid stream, was perhaps the worst
part of the story. The scenery, if not positively devoid of picturesque
beauty, wearied me from its monotonous character. Sand-banks, woods,
and hills, unvaried by the residence of man, or the slightest token of
civilization, constituted its leading features. Occasionally a boat
might be encountered, but, excepting from the rude salutation of the
wild crew, the screaming of wild fowl, and the loud crash of falling
banks, prostrating lofty trees in the bosom of the river, not a sound
was heard to relieve the pervading solitude. But, altogether, the
velocity of the trip, with the désagrément of limited accommodation,
was a good exchange for the comforts of a budgerow, and the tediousness
of its pace.
Passing the healthy and pretty stations of Tezpore and Bishnath,
I arrived at the mouth of the little stream Dikhoo, in nine days,
and, mounting an elephant, rode through a dense tree and grass jungle
to Seebsaugur, distant twelve miles from the Burrampooter. It was a
bitterly raw, cold, wet day; but a blazing fire on the floor in the
snug reed and grass cottage of an acquaintance, soon erased from my
memory the inconvenience of the previous ten days' exposure.
In the rains, the Burrampooter river resembles a sea, extending for
many miles over the country. In the dry season it will be found in many
places more than a mile wide. The current in Upper Assam, above Dibroo
Ghur, is much more rapid than the Ganges river, and far more dangerous;
from the river being strewed with immense trees, which are whirled down
the stream with awful impetuosity, threatening instant destruction
to the boat so unfortunate as to come in contact with them. For this
reason, the canoes of the country being more manageable, and even if
filled with water, too buoyant to sink, much less risk is incurred by
travelling in them than in the comfortable budgerow, or large native
boat of Western India, roofed with straw. The canoe has also another
advantage, in case of a storm, as it can in a few minutes be dragged
on shore and remain in perfect safety till the toofan has passed
over. The confinement, however, and constant reclining posture are
almost unbearable in the hot weather; and there is a painful sense of
insecurity from the streams and rivers in many parts of Assam swarming
with crocodiles. Natives, when bathing, are not unfrequently seized
by crocodiles, and I have heard that one of these amphibious monsters
has been known to seize a paddler unsuspiciously sleeping in the front
part of the boat: which is not improbable, as the sides of a canoe
are only six inches or a foot above the water. Such occurrences,
however, are too rare to justify the fears that are entertained;
but their rarity, considering the great numbers of crocodiles
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account