This libation was said to be made to the
“good spirit” (ἀγαθοῦ δαίμονος), and was usually accompanied with the
singing of the paean and the playing of flutes. After this libation
mixed wine was brought in, and with their first cup the guests
drank to Διὸς Σωτῆρος. With the libations the _deipnon_ closed; and
at the introduction of the dessert (δεύτεραι τράπεζαι) the πότος,
συμπόσιον or κῶμος commenced, of which an account is given under
SYMPOSIUM.--(2) ROMAN. As the Roman meals are not always clearly
distinguished, it will be convenient to treat of all under the most
important one; and we shall confine ourselves to the description of
the ordinary life of the middle ranks of society in the Augustan age,
noticing incidentally the most remarkable deviations. The meal with
which the Roman sometimes began the day was the _jentaculum_, which
was chiefly taken by children, or sick persons, or the luxurious. An
irregular meal (if we may so express it) was not likely to have any
very regular time: two epigrams of Martial, however, seem to fix the
hour at about three or four o’clock in the morning. Bread formed the
substantial part of this early breakfast, to which cheese, or dried
fruit, as dates and raisins, were sometimes added. Next followed the
_prandium_ or luncheon, with persons of simple habits a frugal meal,
usually taken about twelve or one o’clock. The _coena_, or principal
meal of the day, corresponding to our “dinner,” was usually taken
about three o’clock in the time of Cicero and Augustus, though we
read of some persons not dining till near sunset. A Roman dinner
at the house of a wealthy man usually consisted of three courses.
The first was called _promulsis_, _antecoena_, or _gustatio_, and
was made up of all sorts of stimulants to the appetite. Eggs also
were so indispensable to the first course that they almost gave a
name to it (_ab ovo usque ad mala_). The frugality of Martial only
allowed of lettuce and Sicenian olives; indeed he himself tells us
that the _promulsis_ was a refinement of modern luxury. It would far
exceed our limits to mention all the dishes which formed the second
course of a Roman dinner. Of birds, the Guinea hen (_Afra avis_), the
pheasant (_phasiana_, so called from Phasis, a river of Colchis),
and the thrush, were most in repute; the liver of a capon steeped in
milk, and beccaficos (_ficedulae_) dressed with pepper, were held a
delicacy. The peacock, according to Macrobius, was first introduced
by Hortensius the orator, at an inaugural supper, and acquired such
repute among the Roman gourmands as to be commonly sold for fifty
denarii. Other birds are mentioned, as the duck (_anas_), especially
its head and breast; the woodcock (_attagen_), the turtle, and
flamingo (_phoenicopterus_), the tongue of which, Martial tells us,
particularly commended itself to the delicate palate. Of fish, the
variety was perhaps still greater; the charr (_scarus_), the turbot
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