(_rhombus_), the sturgeon (_acipenser_), the mullet (_mullus_), were
highly prized, and dressed in the most various fashions. Of solid
meat, pork seems to have been the favourite dish, especially sucking
pig. Boar’s flesh and venison were also in high repute: the former is
described by Juvenal as _animal propter convivia natum_. Condiments
were added to most of these dishes: such were the _muria_, a kind of
pickle made from the tunny fish; the _garum sociorum_, made from the
intestines of the mackerel (_scomber_), so called because brought
from abroad; _alec_, a sort of brine; _faex_, the sediment of wine,
&c. Several kinds of _fungi_ are mentioned, truffles (_boleti_),
mushrooms (_tuberes_), which either made dishes by themselves, or
formed the garniture for larger dishes. It must not be supposed that
the _artistes_ of imperial Rome were at all behind ourselves in the
preparation and arrangements of the table. In a large household, the
functionaries to whom this important duty was entrusted were four,
the butler (_promus_), the cook (_archimagirus_), the arranger of the
dishes (_structor_), and the carver (_carptor_ or _scissor_). Carving
was taught as an art, and performed to the sound of music, with
appropriate gesticulations.
----“minimo sane discrimine refert,
Quo vultu lepores, et quo gallina secetur.”
In the supper of Petronius, a large round tray (_ferculum_,
_repositorium_) is brought in, with the signs of the zodiac figured
all round it, upon each of which the _artiste_ (_structor_) had
placed some appropriate viand, a goose on Aquarius, a pair of scales
with tarts (_scriblitae_) and cheesecakes (_placentae_) in each scale
on Libra, &c. In the middle was placed a hive supported by delicate
herbage. Presently four slaves come forward dancing to the sound of
music, and take away the upper part of the dish; beneath appear all
kinds of dressed meats; a hare with wings to imitate Pegasus, in
the middle; and four figures of Marsyas at the corners, pouring hot
sauce (_garum piperatum_) over the fish, that were swimming in the
Euripus below. So entirely had the Romans lost all shame of luxury,
since the days when Cincius, in supporting the Fannian law, charged
his own age with the enormity of introducing the _porcus Trojanus_, a
sort of pudding stuffed with the flesh of other animals.--The third
course was the _bellaria_ or dessert, to which Horace alludes when
he says of Tigellius _ab ovo usque ad mala citaret_; it consisted
of fruits (which the Romans usually ate uncooked), such as almonds
(_amygdalae_), dried grapes (_uvae passae_), dates (_palmulae_,
_caryotae_, _dactyli_); of sweetmeats and confections, called _edulia
mellita_, _dulciaria_, such as cheesecakes (_cupediae_, _crustula_,
_liba_, _placentae_, _artolagani_), almond cakes (_coptae_),
tarts (_scriblitae_), whence the maker of them was called _pistor
dulciarius_, _placentarius_, _libarius_, &c. We will now suppose
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