Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
I am quite alone here. England may have been invaded and London
sacked, for aught I know. Several weeks since a newspaper,
accidentally blown to my solitude, informed me that the _Great
Eastern_, with the second American telegraphic cable on board, had
got under way, and was about to proceed to sea. There is great joy,
I perceive. Human nature stands astonished at itself--felicitates
itself on its remarkable talent, and will for months to come
complacently purr over its achievement in magazines and reviews. A
fine world, messieurs, that will attain to heaven--if in the power of
steam. A very fine world; yet for all that, I have withdrawn from it
for a time, and would rather not hear of its remarkable exploits. In
my present mood, I do not value them the coil of vapour on the brow
of Blaavin, which, as I gaze, smoulders into nothing in the fire of
sunrise.
Goethe informs us that in his youth he loved to shelter himself in
the Scripture narratives from the marching and counter-marching of
armies, the cannonading, fighting, and retreating, that went on
everywhere around him. He shut his eyes, as it were, and a whole
war-convulsed Europe wheeled away into silence and distance; and in
its place, lo! the patriarchs, with their tawny tents, their
man-servants and maid-servants, and countless flocks in perceptible
procession whitening the Syrian plains. In this, my green solitude,
I appreciate the full sweetness of the passage. Everything here is
silent as the Bible plains themselves. I am cut off from former
scenes and associates as by the sullen Styx and the grim ferrying of
Charon's boat. The noise of the world does not touch me. I live too
far inland to hear the thunder of the reef. To this place no postman
comes; no tax-gatherer. This region never heard the sound of the
church-going bell. The land is Pagan as when the yellow-haired
Norseman landed a thousand years ago. I almost feel a Pagan myself.
Not using a notched stick, I have lost all count of time, and don't
know Saturday from Sunday. Civilisation is like a soldier's stock,
it makes you carry your head a good deal higher, makes the angels
weep a little more at your fantastic tricks, and half suffocates you
the while. I have thrown it away, and breathe freely. My bed is the
heather, my mirror the stream from the hills, my comb and brush the
sea breeze, my watch the sun, my theatre the sunset, and my evening
service--not without a rude natural religion in it--watching the
pinnacles of the hills of Cuchullin sharpening in intense purple
against the pallid orange of the sky, or listening to the melancholy
voices of the sea-birds and the tide; that over, I am asleep, till
touched by the earliest splendour of the dawn. I am, not without
reason, hugely enamoured of my vagabond existence.
[Sidenote: In a Skye bothy.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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