Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
My bothy is situated on the shores of one of the Lochs that intersect
Skye. The coast is bare and rocky, hollowed into fantastic chambers;
and when the tide is making, every cavern murmurs like a sea-shell.
The land, from frequent rain, green as emerald, rises into soft
pastoral heights, and about a mile inland soars suddenly up into
peaks of bastard marble, white as the cloud under which the lark
sings at noon, and bathed in rosy light at sunset. [Sidenote: The
Cuchullins.] In front are the Cuchullin hills and the monstrous peak
of Blaavin; then the green strath runs narrowing out to sea, and the
Island of Rum, with a white cloud upon it, stretches like a gigantic
shadow across the entrance of the loch, and completes the scene.
Twice every twenty-four hours the Atlantic tide sets in upon the
hollowed shores; twice is the sea withdrawn, leaving spaces of smooth
sand on which mermaids, with golden combs, might sleek alluring
tresses; and black rocks, heaped with brown dulse and tangle, and
lovely ocean blooms of purple and orange; and bare islets--marked at
full of tide by a glimmer of pale green amid the universal
sparkle--where most the sea-fowl love to congregate. To these
islets, on favourable evenings, come the crows, and sit in sable
parliament; business despatched, they start into air as at a gun, and
stream away through the sunset to their roosting-place in the
Armadale woods. The shore supplies for me the place of books and
companions. Of course Blaavin and the Cuchullin hills are the chief
attractions, and I never weary watching them. In the morning they
wear a great white caftan of mist; but that lifts away before noon,
and they stand with all their scars and passionate torrent-lines bare
to the blue heavens, with perhaps a solitary shoulder for a moment
gleaming wet to the sunlight. After a while a vapour begins to steam
up from their abysses, gathering itself into strange shapes, knotting
and twisting itself like smoke; while above, the terrible crests are
now lost, now revealed, in a stream of flying rack. In an hour a
wall of rain, gray as granite, opaque as iron to the eye, stands up
from sea to heaven. The loch is roughening before the wind, and the
islets, black dots a second ago, are patches of roaring foam. You
hear fierce sound of its coming. Anon, the lashing tempest sweeps
over you, and looking behind, up the long inland glen, you can see
the birch-woods and over the sides of the hills, driven on the wind,
the white smoke of the rain. Though fierce as a charge of Highland
bayonets these squalls are seldom of long duration, and you bless
them when you creep from your shelter, for out comes the sun, and the
birch-woods are twinkling, and more intensely flash the levels of the
sea, and at a stroke the clouds are scattered from the wet brow of
Blaavin, and to the whole a new element has been added; the voice of
the swollen stream as it rushes red over a hundred tiny cataracts,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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