Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
ancestor on the wall--from the picture of the fanned and hooped
lady--from the old suit of armour and the moth-eaten banner. On the
intellectual man, living or working in Edinburgh, the light comes
through the stained window of the past. To-day's event is not raw
and _brusque_; it comes draped in romantic colour, hued with ancient
gules and or. And when he has done his six hours' work, he can take
the noblest and most renovating exercise. He can throw down his pen,
put aside his papers, and walk round the Queen's Drive, where the
wind from the sea is always fresh and keen; and in his hour's walk he
has wonderful variety of scenery--the fat Lothians--the craggy
hillside--the valley, which seems a bit of the Highlands--the wide
sea, with smoky towns on its margin, and islands on its bosom--lakes
with swans and rushes--ruins of castle, palace, and chapel--and,
finally, homeward by the high towering street through which Scottish
history has rushed like a stream. There is no such hour's walk as
this for starting ideas, or, having started, captured, and used them,
for getting quit of them again.
[Sidenote: Summer in Edinburgh.]
Edinburgh is at this moment in the full blaze of her beauty. The
public gardens are in blossom. The trees that clothe the base of the
Castle rock are clad in green: the "ridgy back" of the Old Town jags
the clear azure. Princes Street is warm and sunny--'tis a very
flower-bed of parasols, twinkling, rainbow-coloured. Shop windows
are enchantment, the flag streams from the Halfmoon Battery,
church-spires sparkle sun-gilt, gay equipages dash past, the military
band is heard from afar. The tourist is already here in wonderful
Tweed costume. Every week the wanderers increase, and in a short
time the city will be theirs. By August the inhabitants have fled.
The University lets loose, on unoffending humanity, a horde of
juvenile M.D.'s warranted to dispense--with the sixth commandment.
Beauty listens to what the wild waves are saying. Valour cruises in
the Mediterranean; and Law, up to the knees in heather, stalks his
stag on the slopes of Ben-Muich-dhui. Those who, from private and
most urgent reasons, are forced to remain behind, put brown paper in
their front windows; inform the world by placard that letters and
parcels may be left at No. 26 round the corner, and live fashionably
in their back-parlours. At twilight only do they adventure forth;
and if they meet a friend--who ought like the rest of the world to be
miles away--they have only of course come up from the sea-side, or
their relation's shooting-box, for a night, to look after some
imperative business. Tweed-clad tourists are everywhere: they stand
on Arthur's Seat, they speculate on the birthplace of Mons Meg, they
admire Roslin, eat haggis, attempt whisky-punch, and crowd to Dr
Guthrie's church on Sundays. By October the last tourist has
departed, and the first student has arrived. Tailors put forth their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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