Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Moreover, one is tired and jaded. The whole man, body and soul, like
sweet bells jangled, out of tune, and harsh, is fagged with work,
eaten up of impatience, and haunted with visions of vacation. One
"babbles o' green fields," like a very Falstaff; and the poor tired
ears hum with sea-music like a couple of sea-shells. At last it
comes, the 1st of August, and then--like an arrow from a Tartar's
bow, like a bird from its cage, like a lover to his mistress--one is
off; and before the wild scarlets of sunset die on the northern sea,
one is in the silence of the hills, those eternal sun-dials that tell
the hours to the shepherd, and in one's nostrils is the smell of
peat-reek, and in one's throat the flavour of usquebaugh. Then come
long floating summer days, so silent the wilderness, that one can
hear one's heart beat; then come long silent nights, the waves heard
upon the shore, although _that_ is a mile away, in which one snatches
the "fearful joy" of a ghost story, told by shepherd or fisher, who
believes in it as in his own existence. Then one beholds sunset, not
through the smoked glass of towns, but gloriously through the
clearness of enkindled air. Then one makes acquaintance with
sunrise, which to the dweller in a city, who conforms to the usual
proprieties, is about the rarest of this world's sights.
[Sidenote: Idleness in the North.]
Mr De Quincey maintains, in one of his essays, that dinner--dinner
about seven in the evening, for which one dresses, which creeps on
with multitudinous courses and _entrées_, which, so far from being a
gross satisfaction of appetite, is a feast noble, graceful, adorned
with the presence and smile of beauty, and which, from the very
stateliness of its progress, gives opportunities for conversation and
the encounter of polished minds--saves over-wrought London from
insanity. This is no mere humorous exaggeration, but a very truth;
and what dinner is to the day the Highlands are to the year. Away in
the north, amid its green or stony silences, jaded hand and brain
find repose--repose, the depth and intensity of which the idler can
never know. In that blessed idleness you become in a strange way
acquainted with yourself; for in the world you are too constantly
occupied to spend much time in your own company. You live abroad all
day, as it were, and only come home to sleep. Away in the north you
have nothing else to do, and cannot quite help yourself; and
conscience, who has kept open a watchful eye, although her lips have
been sealed these many months, gets disagreeably communicative, and
tells her mind pretty freely about certain little shabby
selfishnesses and unmanly violences of temper, which you had quietly
consigned--like a document which you were for ever done with--to the
waste-basket of forgetfulness. And the quiet, the silence, the rest,
is not only good for the soul, it is good for the body too. You
flourish like a flower in the open air; the hurried pulse beats a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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