Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Up betimes next morning, you are on the beautiful road which runs
between Tarbet and Arrochar, and begin, through broken, white
upstreaming mists, to make acquaintance with the "Cobbler" and some
other peaks of that rolling country to which Celtic facetiousness has
given the name of "The Duke of Argyle's Bowling-green." Escaping
from the birches that line the road, and descending on Arrochar and
Loch Long, you can leisurely inspect the proportions of the mountain
Crispin. He is a gruesome carle, and inhospitable to strangers. He
does not wish to be intruded upon--is a very hermit, in fact; for
when, after wild waste of breath and cuticle, a daring mortal climbs
up to him, anxious to be introduced, behold he has slipped his cable,
and is nowhere to be seen. And it does not improve the temper of the
climber that, when down again, and casting up his eyes, he discovers
the rocky figure sitting in his accustomed place. The Cobbler's Wife
sits a little way off--an ancient dame, to the full as withered in
appearance as her husband, and as difficult of access. They dwell in
tolerable amity the twain, but when they do quarrel it is something
tremendous! The whole county knows when a tiff is in progress. The
sky darkens above them. The Cobbler frowns black as midnight. His
Wife sits sulking in the mist. His Wife's conduct aggravates the
Cobbler--who is naturally of a peppery temper--and he gives vent to a
discontented growl. Nothing loath, and to the full as irascible as
her spouse, his Wife spits back fire upon him. The row begins. They
flash at one another in the savagest manner, scolding all the while
in the grandest Billingsgate. Everything listens to them for twenty
miles round. At last the Wife gives in, and falls to downright
weeping, the crusty old fellow sending a shot into her at intervals.
She cries, and he grumbles, into the night. Peace seems to have been
restored somehow when everybody is asleep; for next morning the
Cobbler has renewed his youth. He shines in the sun like a very
bridegroom, not a frown on the old countenance of him, and his Wife
opposite, the tears hardly dried upon her face yet, smiles upon him
through her prettiest head-dress of mist; and for the next six weeks
they enjoy as bright, unclouded weather as husband and wife can
expect in a world where everything is imperfect.
[Sidenote: Glencroe.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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